The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (6 page)

6
8-to 10-ounce boneless rib-eye steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt

Coarsely ground black pepper

Whipped Horseradish Cream
(page 321)

When ready to grill steaks, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Season steaks generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill steaks 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Serve steaks on a platter along with a bowl of the Whipped Horseradish Cream.

Automobile mogul Henry Ford invented charcoal briquets in the early 1920s.

RIB-EYE STEAKS WITH SMOKY CHILE

TOMATO SAUCE

Lightly charred rib-eye steaks seasoned with ground cumin are partnered with a smoky tomato
sauce made with chipotle peppers. The chipotles, which are smoked jalapeño peppers, contribute a
distinctive rich undertone to the sauce. Red and Yellow Pepper Coleslaw
(page 179)
and corn on
the cob would make fine accompaniments to the rib-eyes.

SERVES 4

2
small dried chipotle peppers, 2½ to 3 inches long (see note)

1
cup boiling water

2
tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

¾
cup chopped yellow onion

1
teaspoon chopped garlic

1
14-ounce can Italian-style tomatoes, drained and chopped

Kosher salt

2
teaspoons ground cumin

¼
teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

4
8-to 10-ounce boneless rib-eye steaks, 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat
4
teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro

Place chipotle peppers in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Soak until softened, 30

minutes or longer. Strain peppers, reserving water for making sauce. Wearing rubber gloves, halve peppers lengthwise and scrape out and discard all seeds. (The seeds are what make these peppers so hot; removing them will result in a spicy rather than a fiery hot dish.) Chop seeded peppers finely and measure out 2 teaspoons; you can save any extra peppers for another use.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook onion, stirring 2

minutes. Add garlic and 2 teaspoons chopped chipotles, and cook and stir 1 minute more. Add tomatoes, reserved soaking water, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring mixture to a simmer and lower heat.

Cook, uncovered, until most, but not quite all, of liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes more. Taste and season with more salt if needed. (Sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat, stirring, just to warm when ready to use.) Makes 1½ cups sauce.

Thirty minutes before you plan to cook steaks, combine cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub both sides of each steak lightly with seasonings and let stand at cool room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.)

Arrange steaks on a serving plate and top each with some sauce. Sprinkle steaks with chopped cilantro.

NOTE:
Chipotle peppers are sold both dried and in sauce and are available in specialty food stores and some groceries. Buy the dried ones for this recipe.

Thomas Edison designed the first charcoal briquet plant for his friend Henry Ford.

GINGER AND GARLIC FLANK STEAKS

These grilled steaks, studded with slivers of ginger and garlic, then marinated in wine vinegar and
olive oil, are low in fat but high in flavor. The taste of ginger and garlic comes through with each
bite of the tender meat. The steaks would be good served with Sesame and Ginger Coleslaw (page

178) and with Green Beans Tossed with Olive Oil and Chives (page 147).

SERVES 6

1
1½-inch piece of ginger

4
medium cloves garlic, peeled

2
1½-pound flank steaks, about ½ inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

3
tablespoons red wine vinegar

2
teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper

1½
teaspoons Dijon mustard

¾
teaspoon salt

6
tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

1
bunch watercress, cleaned and dried (optional)

Peel ginger and cut into thin slices, then cut slices into thin slivers. Measure 2 tablespoons and save extra for another use. Cut garlic into thin slivers. With a sharp paring knife, make small slits over both top and bottom surface of steaks and insert ginger and garlic slivers in slits.

Place the steaks in a shallow nonreactive dish, which will hold them comfortably in a single layer. In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, pepper, mustard, and salt to blend. Whisk in 6

tablespoons olive oil. Pour this mixture over the steaks. Cover the meat with plastic wrap, refrigerate, and marinate, turning several times, at least 2 hours or overnight. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before grilling.

When ready to cook, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill steaks 6 to 7 minutes per side or until rosy inside when pierced with a knife. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.)

When done, remove meat to a chopping board. Let rest 5 minutes. Cut meat on the diagonal against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. Arrange overlapping slices on a platter and garnish with several bouquets of watercress arranged around the border of the platter, if desired.

SESAME FLANK STEAKS WITH GRILLED

GREEN ONIONS

Flank steaks, marinated in rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, and soy sauce, are grilled along with
whole green onions for this easy main course. The grilled steaks, sliced and arranged with
charred scallions on a serving platter, are sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and sea salt for a
glorious finish.

SERVES 6

2
1½-pound flank steaks, about ½ inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

½
cup soy sauce

8
tablespoons sesame oil, divided

6
tablespoons rice wine vinegar

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

2
bunches green onions

Sea salt or kosher salt
(see page 14)

3
tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
(see page 15)

Place steaks in a shallow nonreactive dish, which will hold them comfortably in a single layer.

In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, 6 tablespoons of the sesame oil, and vinegar. Pour marinade over the meat and marinate 6 hours or overnight, turning several times.

When ready to cook meat, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare a grill for a hot fire (high temperature).

Cut off root ends of green onions, then trim stems, leaving 4 inches of the green. Place the onions in a shallow dish or pan and brush all over with remaining 2 tablespoons of sesame oil. Set aside.

When grill is hot, remove steaks from marinade. Pat dry lightly with paper towels, then grill 6 to 7 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Internal temperature should be 145 degrees F.) Remove to a platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.

Grill green onions, turning occasionally, until slightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a side dish.

To serve, slice the meat diagonally, across the grain, into ¼-inch-thick slices. Arrange slices on a serving platter. Garnish platter with grilled onions. Season meat and onions with salt, then sprinkle with sesame seeds.

GRILLED LEMON PARSLEY VEAL CHOPS

What makes these veal chops unique is the delicious garnish of chopped parsley, rosemary, and
garlic, mixed with grated lemon zest. Known as gremolata, this herb topping (usually made
without the rosemary) is typically sprinkled over braised veal shanks in the classic Italian dish
called osso buco. In this recipe, the bright green herb mixture makes a striking accompaniment to
succulent grilled veal chops.

SERVES 6

2
large thick-skinned lemons

1
bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

1
bunch fresh rosemary

4
to
5
medium cloves garlic, peeled

½
cup olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

6
8-to 10-ounce veal loin chops, trimmed of excess fat

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Using a citrus zester or grater, grate enough peel from the lemons to make 1 tablespoon. Place in a small bowl and cover with a paper towel that has been dampened with water and folded several times so it fits in the bowl. Wrap bowl tightly in plastic and refrigerate for up to 1 day. (Stored this way the lemon peel will stay moist so that it can be used later for the garnish.) To make the marinade, juice the lemons to yield 6 tablespoons and put juice in a medium nonreactive bowl. Chop enough parsley to yield ⅓ cup and enough rosemary to yield 1 tablespoon; add to mixing bowl. Crush 3 garlic cloves and add to bowl. Save the remaining parsley, rosemary, and garlic cloves for the garnish. Whisk ½ cup olive oil into the mixing bowl.

Place the veal chops in a large, shallow nonreactive pan and pour marinade over them. Cover and refrigerate. Marinate 6 hours or overnight, turning several times.

Thirty minutes before you are ready to grill chops, prepare the garnish. Chop 3 tablespoons parsley, 1½ teaspoons rosemary, and 1 teaspoon garlic. Add to the small bowl with the reserved lemon peel and mix well.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Remove chops from marinade and salt and pepper them generously on both sides. Grill chops until rosy pink inside when pierced with a knife, 4 to 6 minutes per side. (Internal temperature should be between 145 and 150 degrees F.)

Arrange chops on a serving platter and top each with a generous amount of the parsley-lemon garnish.

HAMBURGERS WITH CHUNKY GUACAMOLE

SALSA AND SMOKED BACON

Grilled burgers topped with homemade, spicy guacamole salsa and crispy bacon are an
irresistible combination. Pepper Jack Corn Pudding
(page 140)
and Sweet Potato Chips (page

160) would be colorful side dishes to serve with the burgers.

SERVES 6

6
thick slices (about 6 ounces) bacon

1½
pounds 80% lean ground beef

Vegetable oil for oiling grill rack

6
good-quality hamburger buns, lightly toasted

Salt

Chunky Guacamole Salsa
(page 306)

Fry bacon in a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat until crisp and golden. Remove and drain on paper towels. Break each slice in half and set aside for up to 2 hours until needed.

Shape ground beef into 6 patties, each about ½ inch thick. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

When ready to cook, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Grill burgers 4 to 5 minutes per side until cooked through. (Internal temperature should be 160 degrees F.)

Place burgers on bottoms of toasted buns. Salt burgers very lightly, then top each with 2 halves of bacon. Mound burgers with a generous amount of Chunky Guacamole Salsa. (You may not need to use all the salsa; save extra for another use.) Cover with tops of buns.

Hamburgers were introduced to Americans at the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904. Their
name is derived from the German city of Hamburg.

“TRUE BLUES” HAMBURGERS

Creamy blue cheese and robust rosemary are the flavorings that make these burgers so tempting.

Red, Yellow, Orange, and Green Heirloom Tomato Salad
(page 190)
and grilled or boiled corn on
the cob would make fine side dishes.

SERVES 6

1½
pounds 80% lean ground beef

1
tablespoon crushed dried rosemary

1
teaspoon salt

¼
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for brushing on onions and oiling grill rack

1
large red onion, cut into six ¼-inch-thick round slices

1
6-to 8-ounce piece of Saga blue cheese (or another creamy-style blue cheese), cut into 6 slices
6
good-quality hamburger buns, lightly toasted

6
leaves red leaf lettuce or other crispy lettuce

Combine ground beef, rosemary, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and mix well to combine.

Shape into six ½-inch-thick patties. (Patties can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

When ready to cook burgers, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare a grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Brush onion slices on both sides with some oil. Grill burgers and onions about 4 to 5 minutes per side, using a metal spatula to turn them. (Internal temperature of burgers should be 160 degrees F.) When burgers are almost done, cover with some sliced Saga blue and continue to cook until cheese melts. Onions are done when slightly charred and soft when pierced with a knife.

To serve, arrange burgers on bottoms of toasted buns and top with onion slices and lettuce.

Cover with tops of buns and serve immediately.

BBQ BURGERS

These beef burgers, made with ground beef mixed with homemade barbecue sauce, are a personal
favorite. Grilled, then topped with sliced white Cheddar, chopped onions, and more barbecue
sauce, they are manna for barbecue fans. Old-Fashioned Potato Salad
(page 172)
and A Mixed
Bag of Beans
(page 162)
are all-time favorites that would complement the burgers.