The Little Paris Kitchen (19 page)

Soak the gelatin in cold water for 10 minutes or until soft. Drain and squeeze out the excess water, then dissolve in the shrimp-shell stock, whisking vigorously. (If necessary, heat very gently, stirring until the gelatin dissolves.)

Divide the shrimp and asparagus cubes between the lined cups and pour in the stock. Refrigerate for 4 hours or until set.

To serve, run a knife around the top edge of each blancmange, cut a slit on both sides of the foil, and peel away the cup.

Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Resting time: 4 hours
–
overnight

Sweet sabayons are traditionally seen on dessert menus, but savory sabayons work equally well as a starter or main course. This recipe is nicely balanced, with the creaminess of the sauce, the natural sweetness of the scallops, and a kick from the peppery arugula to round everything off.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

For the sabayon:
4 egg yolks • 6½ tbsp dry white wine • a pinch each of sugar and salt

• 12 large scallops • 2 tbsp olive oil • several handfuls of arugula, to garnish

TO MAKE THE SABAYON:
Put the egg yolks, wine, sugar, and salt into a bain-marie (a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water) and whisk until thick and foamy, about 10 minutes. To test, draw a figure eight in the mixture with the whisk—if the figure stays put, then the sabayon is ready. Take the bowl off the pan, cover with a lid or plate, and set aside in a warm place while you cook the scallops.

Rinse the scallops under cold running water and then pat dry with paper towels.

Put the olive oil into a large pan and place over a high heat. Once the oil is smoking hot, lay the scallops in the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the scallops until golden on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn the scallops over, season with salt and continue to cook until the scallops are golden and slightly firm to the touch, another 2–3 minutes.

Serve the scallops immediately, with the sabayon and a garnish of arugula.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes

You wouldn't normally think of putting onions in a
crème brûlée
, but surprisingly the two work really well together. Slow, gentle cooking releases the natural sweetness in the onions, which marries well with the creamy base, while the cheese gives the dish a savory aspect.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

• 4 large onions • 2 tbsp butter • 3½ tbsp Calvados • 1 cup plus 2 tbsp heavy cream • ¾ cup milk • 5 egg yolks • 2 oz Gruyère or mature Comté cheese, finely grated • salt and pepper

For the caramel topping:
2 tbsp superfine sugar • 2 tbsp raw cane sugar

Finely slice the onions. Cook the butter and onions in a large pan for 10 minutes until golden brown. Add the Calvados and cook for 10 minutes until it evaporates, stirring often to stop the onions burning. Add the cream and milk. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and let stand for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 225°F. Pour the cream through a sieve into a pan, and press as much cream out of the onions as possible. Discard the onions. In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks and stir in the cheese. Bring the cream to a boil, then pour slowly over the egg yolks and cheese, stirring constantly. Do not overbeat, as you want to avoid too many bubbles. Season. Divide the mixture between four shallow mini gratin dishes (5½ inches diameter) and place in a deep roasting pan or baking dish.

Place the pan in the oven and pour in lukewarm water to come halfway up the dishes. Bake for 30–40 minutes or until the custards are set around the edges but still slightly loose in the middle. Remove the dishes from the water and leave to cool before covering with plastic wrap (do not let the film touch the custards). Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight (they will keep for up to 4 days).

JUST BEFORE SERVING, MAKE THE CARAMEL TOPPING:
Uncover the ramekins and check to see if condensation has collected on the custards. If it has, gently place paper towels on the surface to soak up the moisture. Mix the two types of sugar together and sprinkle a nice even layer of sugar over each custard.

Stand the ramekins on a metal tray. Holding a blowtorch
*
4–5 inches from the sugar and maintaining a slow and even motion, torch the sugar until just before the desired degree of doneness is reached (the sugar will cook for a few seconds after the flame has been removed).

*
A blowtorch is best for caramelizing, but if you don't have one, take a large metal spoon and hold it in a gas flame until very hot (it will turn blue, almost black in color). Place the spoon on the sugar and move it around so that the heat of the spoon caramelizes the sugar.

Preparation time: 30 minutes
Resting time: 4 hours
–
overnight
Cooking time: 1 hour

A winter warmer from Alsace. Originally a one-pot stew made with fresh, cured, and smoked pork, I've broken it down into three components: a “speedy” sauerkraut with a crunch factor, a smoky bacon broth, and the meat. I'm a big fan of a crisp crackling, so I put everything in the oven rather than cook it as a stew: the flavors are the same, but the textures are different. Serve with a Dijon or grainy mustard and boiled or roasted small new potatoes.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

For the bouillon:
7-oz piece of smoked bacon • 2 cups cold water

For the speedy sauerkraut:
10 juniper berries • 6½ tbsp dry white wine, ideally from Alsace • 1
⅔
cups cold water • ½ cup sugar • 2 tbsp salt • 1 cup white wine vinegar • 1 lb hard white cabbage, finely shredded

• 1 lb boned pork belly with fat and skin
*
• salt, for sprinkling • 4 frankfurters or other smoked sausages • 4 thick slices of smoked bacon

TO MAKE THE BOUILLON:
Put the smoked bacon in a pot with the water, cover, and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for 30 minutes. Drain through a very fine sieve. (This can be made in advance and kept in the fridge overnight.)

TO MAKE THE SAUERKRAUT:
Put the juniper berries into a dry pan and heat. Add the wine and reduce to a couple of tablespoons, then add the water and boil. Add the sugar, salt, and vinegar and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. Pour over the cabbage in a plastic container, let cool, then cover and refrigerate for 1–4 hours. (It will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week. The longer it marinates, the less crunchy it will be, but it will still be delicious.)

Preheat the oven to 500°F, or its hottest setting, and line a roasting pan with parchment paper. Pat the skin of the pork dry with paper towels
**
before sprinkling and rubbing with salt. Roast the pork for 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 350°F and roast for another hour before adding the sausages and smoked bacon slices. Roast for another 30 minutes, shaking the pan and turning the sausages and bacon halfway. If the pork skin isn't crisping, turn the heat up to 425°F.

To serve, bring the bouillon to a boil and slice the crispy pork into four portions. Place the pork on individual plates with a slice of bacon, a sausage, and a spoonful of sauerkraut, then pour over a ladle of the hot bouillon.

Preparation time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 2
¼
hours