The Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook (22 page)

This is a very basic yet scrumptious side that novice cook Daisy could make while Mrs. Patmore does the more heavy lifting. Later, of course, Daisy would prove herself to be quite the competent chef and even asks for a promotion, much to the consternation of Mrs. Patmore, who would prefer that Daisy continue making this potato dish for quite a bit more time.

6 Russet potatoes

¹
⁄
₄
cup clarified butter

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
   
2. Scrub and peel the potatoes under cold water. Use the smaller end of a melon-baller to scoop out at least 25 small balls of potato flesh. Keep round balls of potatoes in cold water until ready to cook.
   
3. Heat butter in an ovenproof pan over medium heat. Sauté the potato balls in butter over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring often.
   
4. Transfer pan to preheated oven and bake for 25–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until potato balls are tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
   

These potatoes are called noisette potatoes because their size, once balled, is similar to that of a hazelnut, or
noisette
, the French word for hazelnut. Because most refined ladies would know what
noisette
means in English, they would smile at this dish and understand its name.

A German-inspired recipe, this sweet dish with a spice of sour red cabbage would add a bit of flair to the most formal of occasions. This would be especially popular during the winter months at Downton Abbey when the Crawleys are feeling a bit Christmas-y and in need of extra warmth. For an additional bit of sweetness, add a few teaspoons of honey.

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium head red cabbage, shredded

2 large tart apples, thinly sliced

1 medium to large red onion, thinly sliced

1 cup good red wine

¹
⁄
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cup red wine vinegar

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⁄
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cup apple juice

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¹
⁄
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teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon and 1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar

1. Heat butter over medium-high heat in a large saucepan. Lower to medium heat and add cabbage, apples, and onion. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring to fully coat. Reduce heat to low; then stir in red wine, wine vinegar, and apple juice, followed by spices and brown sugar. Cover and simmer for 40–45 minutes, then uncover and cook for an additional 10 minutes until excess juices have evaporated.
   

During the late 1800s and early 1900s, the men liked to be left alone after the meal not only to over-drink and to tell coarse jokes but to smoke… a habit originally considered unacceptable for respectable women. However, by World War I, Emily Post and other leaders of etiquette claimed it was okay and even acceptable for women to smoke — though not to get drunk, of course! Still, both men and women liked their alone time after a meal, as the dinner party with its somewhat risqué seating (men and women sitting next to one another) could be an exhausting performance for both sexes, and it was believed that the women could only be at ease with other women, and the same for men.

These bites of potato are little works of art. Daisy would have to spend a great deal of time with Mrs. Patmore to perfect these so they were acceptable for the Granthams’ table.

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

¹
⁄
₄
cup heavy cream

¹
⁄
₂
cup unsalted butter, divided

¹
⁄
₃
cup grated Parmesan cheese

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

3 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons melted butter

1. Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with salted cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
   
2. While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a small bowl and set aside. Preheat oven to 350°F.
   
3. When the potatoes are cooked, drain and place potatoes back in the pot over low heat. Allow them to release steam, then add the 2 tablespoons of melted butter and mash until the butter is incorporated. Thoroughly mix in cheese, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Finally, mix in egg yolks. Mash until the mixture is smooth but do not mash too much.
   
4. Using a piping bag with a large star point, pipe the potatoes onto a cookie sheet. Drizzle the rosettes with melted butter. Bake the potatoes for 15–30 minutes or until heated through. Then place the baking sheet under a preheated broiler, about 6–8 inches from the heat, and broil until the tops are golden brown.
   

The influential French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846–1935) included a recipe for this dish in his pivotal book on “haute cuisine” titled
Le Guide Culinaire
, which was published in France in 1903. Although the English translation of this cookbook wasn’t printed until 1907, Escoffier’s reputation preceded him and many chefs by then already knew his recipes.

Thanks to the amount of butter in this recipe, these carrots are a delicious addition to any meal, such as Steak Chasseur (see
Chapter 4
) or Daisy’s Downton Rib Roast (see
Chapter 5
). Thanks to the low amount of effort needed to cook this vegetable dish, Mrs. Patmore could focus on the other courses while Daisy kept an eye on the carrots.

1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth

3 pounds fresh carrots, cut into
¹
⁄
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- to
¹
⁄
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-inch slices

¹
⁄
₄
cup unsalted butter

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 cup heavy cream

1. In a large saucepan, bring broth to a boil. Add carrots, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and let simmer for 15 minutes or until the carrots are tender.
   
2. Meanwhile, melt butter in a small saucepan. Stir in sugar, flour, salt, and white pepper until smooth. Gradually add cream. Bring mixture to a boil, then cook, stirring often, until thickened.
   
3. Drain carrots. Coat with cream sauce and then toss to thoroughly coat.
   

The place setting for each guest is a matter of strict propriety. From the right of the plate, going from outside in, should be the oyster fork in the bowl of the soup spoon, the fish knife, the meat knife, followed by the fruit or salad knife. On the right, again from the outside in, should be the fish fork, the meat fork, and the salad or fruit fork. This is because silverware is placed in the order in which it is used, thus cutlery used for first courses would be found on the outer edge of the setting. As this is a
British
table setting, where salad is typically eaten
last
, the salad fork will be found on the inside of the setting. In America, where salad is eaten
first
, the salad fork would be found on the outside of the setting.