The Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook (18 page)

A tender dish enjoyed by many of the English elite, this veal would be served with much aplomb by great houses such as Downton Abbey. For an extra kick, perhaps the daughters of Downton Abbey would pick the apples for the cider themselves, though this seems to be more like something Daisy would enjoy.

2 tablespoons Crisco or fat

1 pound veal, cut into 4 equal pieces

4 tablespoons brandy

4 shallots, finely chopped

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1
¹
⁄
₂
cups apple cider

1 clove

1 bay leaf

2 sprigs thyme

3 sprigs parsley

1 garlic clove, crushed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 teaspoons sugar

1. In a large flame-proof skillet, heat Crisco over medium heat. Once melted, add veal and fry until browned.
   
2. With the skillet still over medium heat, pour brandy over veal and let flame. Once flames have died down, add the shallots and brown around the veal for 3–5 minutes.
   
3. Still simmering the veal, sprinkle flour over top of the meat, then stir into the fat mixture to form a roux. Cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly, then pour in cider a few tablespoons at a time until completely incorporated.
   
4. Add clove, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and garlic to the veal, seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, and sugar. Still simmering, cover the pan and cook gently for 35–40 minutes.
   

Sweet potatoes and apple sauce are traditional sides to serve with this type of veal dish, providing a filling — but sweet — accompaniment.

Squab, also known as a young domestic pigeon, will soon be a popular dish at Downton Abbey once the
second
world war erupts. During that war, while other meat is rationed, pigeon meat will be left alone. Until that happens, delicate and delicious (not to mention sumptuous) dishes like this would impress any visiting dignitaries, as squab is considered a delicacy.

4 whole squabs

8 cloves garlic

4 bay leaves

2 cups sea salt

4 cups duck fat

¹
⁄
₂
cup brewed Darjeeling tea, at room temperature

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1
¹
⁄
₂
pounds slightly chilled
foie gras
, veins removed

Coarse sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 slices white bread, cut into rounds

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 black mission figs, halved

2 medium onions, finely chopped

¹
⁄
₂
cup port

1 orange, juiced

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon orange zest

1. For squabs:
   Remove the breasts and legs from each squab. Crush together the garlic and bay leaves, and mix together in a large bowl with the sea salt. Pack the squab legs in the salt mixture and cure for 45 minutes to 1 hour, then lightly rinse under cold water. Place the legs and duck fat in a large saucepan, bring to a simmer, and cook until the legs are tender. Remove from fat and allow to cool.
   
2. Pour brewed tea and butter in a food processor and blend; then place butter mixture in a medium-sized Ziploc bag with the duck breasts.
   
3. Bring a large saucepan of water to no less than 135°F and no more than 140°F (do not cook above 140°F). Put the Ziploc bag with the squab breasts in the warmed water, and poach until medium rare. Remove breasts from bag, then roast them skin-side down until crispy, about 5–10 minutes.
   
4. For fig
   foie gras
   :
   Line a warmed platter with paper towels. Pull apart the 2 lobes of
   foie gras.
   Cut each lobe into 1-inch sections, then score the top of each section. Season with sea salt and pepper. Sear the sections in a dry pan for 25–30 seconds per side. Remove sections to platter.
   
5. Lower heat to medium-low and remove a small amount of the duck fat. Place duck fat in a small skillet and fry the bread in fat until brown, about 2–3 minutes per side. Remove fat from pan, then coat with olive oil. Briefly brown the figs, then add onions and cook together for 3–5 minutes. Mix together port, juice from
   ¹
   ⁄
   ₂
   an orange, and balsamic vinegar. Use mixture to deglaze the pan, cooking mixture down for 2–3 minutes. Add butter, white sugar, brown sugar, orange zest, salt, and pepper to complete the sauce.
   
6. Gently place one piece of
   foie gras
   on each individual toast. Top with figs, then drizzle with port sauce. Serve with squab.
   

The
Baronne Staffe
, the be-all and end-all of French etiquette, warns hosts to never invite people richer than themselves. After all, it would be the host’s duty to serve food and wines on the level to which the guests are accustomed, which, for some (not the Crawleys), would be more difficult than others. Fortunately, this dish is worthy of even the greatest of dignitaries.

Don’t let the name fool you — this hen is not actually a game bird, but a type of domestic chicken. Originating from the county of Cornwall, one of the poorest areas of the United Kingdom, the Cornish game hen would be a familiar sight to both the aristocrats and the staff of Downton Abbey. (Whether the staff ever had the chance to try this dish is another story.) Nonetheless, this incredibly small bird was considered a delicacy, and would be eaten with great aplomb at a formal dinner.

4 Cornish game hens

¹
⁄
₄
cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 lemons, quartered

2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

20 cloves garlic

¹
⁄
₃
cup apple juice

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

²
⁄
₃
cup dry white wine

4 sprigs fresh rosemary, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
   
2. Rub hens with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then thoroughly season hens with salt and pepper. Place 2 lemon wedges and 2 teaspoons of chopped fresh rosemary in cavity of each hen.
   
3. Lightly pour a tablespoon of olive oil in a large roasting pan, spreading evenly. Place hens in pan, and carefully arrange garlic cloves around each hen. Roast in oven for 30 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350°F.
   
4. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, stir together apple juice, chicken broth, wine, and remaining olive oil. Pour juice over hens, then roast hens for 30–35 minutes or until they are golden and juices run clear. Hens should be basted with pan juices every 10–15 minutes.
   
5. Place hens on a serving platter. Do not discard pan juices. Lightly cover hens with aluminum foil to trap heat as you transfer pan juices and garlic cloves to a small saucepan. Boil juices and garlic cloves until liquids reduce by half and reach a saucelike consistency, about 7–10 minutes. To serve, cut hens in half lengthwise and arrange on plate. Spoon sauce over and place garlic around hens. Garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve.
   

In both Victorian and Edwardian England, it was considered impolite to leave a single piece of uneaten food on the table. Once
Service à la Russe
was introduced, this was easier to avoid. However, if a piece of food was left behind on a serving plate, it was the host’s job to beg a chosen guest to eat it. Not doing so would give the host bad luck, while following through was said to grant the guest good luck. Some particularly superstitious guests would save a choice morsel on their plate for last as a treat, hence the phrase “saving the best for last.”