The Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook (14 page)

The joint — a large piece of meat cooked in one piece — often offered with vegetables (see
Chapter 6
), would be cut on a heating rack called a
réchaud
and then served, followed by sorbets and cigars for the men. The sorbets were meant to cleanse the palate, though with the addition of cigars the men’s mouths wouldn’t be cleansed for long. Regardless, with the advent of
Service á la Russe
, the joint would lose its impressiveness. Writer James Austen-Leigh lamented how dinners were suddenly “carved and handed round by the servants, instead of smoking before our eyes and noses on the table.” That said, these joints and steaks pack quite a powerful punch and would be impressive to the inhabitants of Downton Abbey in their own way!

This is a classic recipe that every experienced cook would have in her repertoire. It’s fun to imagine Mrs. Patmore trying to teach patience to an already flustered and somewhat ditzy Daisy. And yet, it is important to note that, whereas this recipe might be traditionally known as “seven-hour leg of lamb,” the long cook time reflects a time past when animals were tougher and older than the ones we eat today. Nowadays, cooking this leg of lamb for 5 hours is more than enough cooking time.

1 (5- to 6-pound) lamb leg, bone in

¹
⁄
₄
cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 large onions, quartered

4 large carrots, quartered

1 head of garlic, cloves halved

4 bay leaves

4 teaspoons dried thyme

4 teaspoons rosemary

2 (750 ml) bottles dry white wine

5 pounds large red potatoes, peeled and quartered

4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Rub lamb with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
   
2. Layer onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and rosemary in an ovenproof dutch oven large enough to hold lamb. Place lamb on top of onions and carrots.
    
   
3. Roast lamb uncovered in oven for 45 minutes.
   
4. Remove dutch oven with lamb from oven, leaving the oven on. Place dutch oven on top of stove, then slowly pour the white wine over the lamb. Cover and bring mixture to a boil. Return dutch oven with lamb, now covered, to the oven. Roast for an additional 4 hours or until lamb is fork tender but still not falling off its bone. (Please note that the timing will vary depending on the size and age of the lamb, not to mention the pan used.) Be sure to check on lamb every half-hour; if lamb begins to burn, reduce heat.
   
5. When lamb is tender, add potatoes and tomatoes to stock. Cover dutch oven and roast until potatoes are cooked through, about 45 minutes–1 hour. By now the lamb should be very tender and juicy, literally falling off the bone.
   

This recipe has indeed been modernized a bit, as few households during the Edwardian era had gas stoves. In fact, most large country estates used a range in lieu of a “gas cooker” well into and even after World War I. Mrs. Patmore would have been thankful for a basic refrigerator, which back then consisted of two compartments — one for food and the other for ice to keep the food cold. A sub-zero refrigerator (especially one with an icemaker) would have given Mrs. Patmore a heart attack!

The Sunday roast was a traditional meal served at all middle-class homes, offered as proof to both the families themselves and to anyone visiting that they could afford such a feast. This dish, however, is rather fancy for a Sunday roast, and would likely be enjoyed as the roast course at Downton Abbey.

¹
⁄
₂
cup prunes, coarsely chopped

¹
⁄
₄
cup dried cranberries

1 tablespoon crème de cassis liqueur

1 tablespoon red currant jelly

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground coriander

1 (4-pound) boneless leg of lamb, rolled and tied

1 cup roasted almonds, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped mint

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¹
⁄
₂
cup balsamic vinegar

4 tablespoons honey

¹
⁄
₃
cup figs, thinly sliced

¹
⁄
₄
cup unsalted butter

1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped

1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
   
2. Combine prunes, cranberries, crème de cassis, and red currant jelly in a small bowl; set aside. In another small bowl, combine thyme, rosemary, salt, pepper, and coriander and set aside. There is no need to refrigerate.
   
3. Roll lamb out on a flat, clean counter or cutting board. Trim off any thick parts so that meat is evenly thick. Cover lamb with 1/2 -
   ³
   ⁄
   ₄
   of the herb mixture.
   
4. Add almonds and mint to prune mixture, stirring until thoroughly combined, then evenly spread mixture all over the lamb. Roll up the meat and tie with twine at 1-inch intervals. Cut 10–15 slits about 1-inch deep into the top of lamb, inserting chopped garlic into each depression. Rub meat all over with olive oil, sprinkle with remaining herbs.
   
5. Place lamb in a large roasting pan. Make sure the lamb is seam-side up. Place in preheated oven. For a medium-rare flavor, roast until thermometer inserted in the center reads 140°F. Remove lamb from oven and cover with foil for 15 minutes.
   
6. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring balsamic vinegar to a boil. Boil until vinegar is reduced by half, about 4–6 minutes. Once reduced, stir in honey, sliced figs, and butter. Stir until butter has completely melted. Stir in chopped basil then remove from heat and set aside.
   
7. To serve, remove twine from lamb and cut into
   ¹
   ⁄
   ₂
   -inch-thick slices. Serve with fig sauce.
   

Sunday roast came about as a way for the housewife to kill two birds with one stone. She could spend all day cooking this fancy roast on the “day of rest,” then serve the leftovers on Monday while doing the weekly wash.

Lamb chops were a particularly popular dish during the Edwardian era. A variation on a crown roast, the lamb chops in a Guard of Honor are trimmed and criss-crossed like swords at a military wedding. Mint sauce, served on the side or spooned into the central cavity of the dish, would be a standard and expected side. It’s likely that the Countess of Grantham, when daydreaming about Lady Mary’s nuptials, would imagine this regal dish at the wedding.

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly chopped rosemary

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly chopped rhyme

1 cup Italian-seasoned bread crumbs

2 racks of lamb (about 6 chops each), trimmed and frenched

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 cup fresh mint, chopped very fine

3 tablespoons boiling water

3 tablespoons white sugar

4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1. For lamb:
   Preheat oven to 450°F. Make sure rack is in center of oven.
   
2. In a medium-sized skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and shallots, and sauté for 5 minutes. Then lower to a simmer and add balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Stir, then sprinkle in rosemary and thyme. Sauté for an additional 3–5 minutes, then pour garlic mixture into a medium-sized bowl. Toss in bread crumbs, thoroughly mix ingredients, and set aside.
   
3. Season the racks of lamb all over with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Sear racks of lamb for 3–5 minutes on all sides. Let cool for another 3–5 minutes.
   
4. Stand cooled chops on their ends and push them together so that the exposed bones cross each other alternately. Skewer the meat together at either end across the bottom. Brush racks of lamb with the mustard, then smear with the bread-crumb mixture until evenly coated. To prevent charring, cover the ends of the bones with foil.
   
5. Roast the lamb in preheated oven for 18–25 minutes, depending on the degree of doneness you desire. With a meat thermometer, take a reading in the center of each rack of lamb meat after 12–15 minutes and cook to taste. Once removed from heat, allow lamb to rest for 8–10 minutes, loosely covered, before carving between the ribs.
   
6. For mint sauce:
   Place the mint in a small pitcher or bowl, and cover with boiling water. Wait 25–30 minutes to allow the water to become infused. Stir in sugar and wine vinegar. Mix well and serve.