GRANULATED WHITE SUGAR:
Everyone knows granulated white sugar as plain old sugar. There’s plenty of discussion (any Internet search will do) about the vegan-ness of white table sugar because sometimes it is processed with the aid of animal bone char. To eliminate any doubts, look for organic sugar. We like to use granulated white sugar in baked goods because there are great vegan options available these days. It’s also still the cheapest sweetener and easy to use with predictable results. Whole Foods now carries its own packaged vegan sugar, handily labeled as such and in bountiful 4-pound bags.
Another popular brand of organic vegan sugar is Florida Crystals.
It’s also worth noting that if sugar is made from sugar beets instead of cane sugar, it will always be processed in a vegan way, but it can be tricky determining whether sugar is from beet or cane. But you know, don’t let any of this confuse you. You probably know what sugar is so just go ahead and go read something more important now, like that 800-page biography on Robert Moses.
DEMERARA SUGAR:
We love to use this large grain sugar for decorating. It’s a less refined cane sugar, so some of the cane’s natural golden hue is preserved. Because the crystals are larger, they will hold their shape, giving baked cookies a sparkly, disco-like appearance.
EVAPORATED CANE JUICE:
You can use evaporated cane juice wherever we call for sugar. It acts exactly the same in recipes, but it is processed a bit less and retains some of its vitamins. Because when you’re eating cookies what you’re really thinking about is vitamins. Evaporated cane juice is usually available in health food stores.
BROWN SUGAR:
The darling of cinnamony treats, brown sugar is just white sugar that has been flavored and moistened with a touch of molasses. It adds delectable, buttery flavor to vegan cookies. We use dark brown sugar in these recipes, but you may use light if that’s what floats your boat.
SUCANAT
is a dry, natural sweetener, popular with the healthy baking crowd, and when we first started vegan baking it was the only game in town. Its funny-sounding name isn’t from an alien language, it’s actually an abbreviation for “sugar cane natural.” We call specifically for Sucanat in a few recipes, such as the 21ST-CENTURY CAROB CHIP COOKIES (page 94), where we want a hint of molasses flavor in a less processed format than brown sugar. Essentially, it’s the juice from sugar cane that has been dried but, unlike regular white sugar, it has not had its nutrients zapped to kingdom come. You can use Sucanat to replace the sugar in a recipe but note that it will result in a molasses taste, which is great if that’s what you’re going for. It also makes the product a bit more cakey than sugar does. You don’t necessarily have to time travel back to the 1970s for Sucanat; it’s generally available in modern-day health food stores.
MOLASSES
is a slightly less processed liquid sugar cane product that adds a special dark color and flavor to baked goods. Regular molasses is generally used in these recipes when molasses is called for. Blackstrap molasses (used, for example, in BLACKSTRAP GINGERSNAPS, page 42) is thicker, darker, and less sweet with a complex, bittersweet flavor.
PURE MAPLE SYRUP
has become insanely expensive so we don’t really rely on it much, but it does work great in mixing up a vegan chocolate ganache! And sometimes you just need that special maple flavor. Look for darker, slightly less pricy Grade B syrup to use in baked goods. Grade B actually has a stronger maple flavor than Grade A, so it’s a case of more for just a bit less. Never use that Aunt Jemima or Mrs. Butterworth stuff—it’s just artificially flavored high-fructose corn syrup.
BROWN RICE SYRUP:
The name doesn’t sound like much but don’t let it fool you; brown rice syrup is a delectable natural liquid sweetener made from whole-grain rice. Thick and rich and caramel-like, you’d never guess it’s still a whole food. Not overly sweet, too, so we use it in a few wholesome cookies and for recipes that need extra ooey-gooey tastiness.
AGAVE NECTAR:
The latest sweet darling in the health food scene, agave is made from the cooked sap of the succulent agave plant. It’s intensely sweet, even more so than white sugar. It’s reported to have a minimal impact on blood sugar levels, making it diabetic-friendly, but we like it for its clean, light taste.
BARLEY MALT
is a thick, mildly sweet, molasses-like liquid that packs a punch of rich, toasted malted barley flavor. We like to use it in combination with other natural sweeteners (agave or maple) to temper its intense flavor. We call for it in only one or two recipes, so don’t throw your grocer up against a wall demanding to know where it is until you’re sure you’re going to need it.
FATS
Oils, margarine, and shortening bring the flavor and tenderness to baked goods, and cookies are no exception. Cookies in general tend to have a higher ratio of fat (and sugar) to flour than less “dessert-y” baked goods (scones, muffins), just to give you an idea of how important fats are to achieving yummy cookies. The less fat a cookie has the moister and cakier it tastes; if you’ve ever replaced oil with applesauce in a recipe you’ll know what we mean.
NONDAIRY MILK
Because cookies don’t generally require a whole lot of milk, the kind you use is pretty much up to you. None of these cookies call for a specific kind of milk, although you should stick to plain or unsweetened varieties or vanilla if you must. Some of our favorite vegan milks include soy, rice, and almond.
CANOLA AND OTHER VEGETABLE OILS:
A healthy, easy-to-find, and cost-effective choice, canola is our general “go-to” in baking, with its neutral taste, healthy nutritional profile, and even a little bit of Omega 3s. Look for minimally processed, preferably cold-pressed. If canola oil isn’t your thing, feel free to try other light-tasting oils such as sunflower, safflower, or even plain old “vegetable oil.”
MARGARINE:
Not just any old margarine, margarine without trans fats or hydrogenation should be your goal when ingredient shopping. As of this writing, Earth Balance seems to be the most popular vegan margarine in the United States that is also both nonhydrogenated and trans fat-free. This ain’t your grandma’s margarine. In fact, the company doesn’t even call it margarine, that is much too gauche! It’s simply a “buttery spread.” Read labels and check that there are no dairy products (whey, dairy solids, etc.) hidden within, or look for a visit from the vegan police.
SHORTENING:
A great American baking ingredient that creates cookies with a firm texture and provides a reliable baking experience. Just like with margarine, it pays to be picky. There are now several excellent organic shortenings available that are both nonhydrogenated and free of pesky trans fats. Earth Balance shortening and margarine is also available in a convenient baking stick form.
COCONUT OIL:
Natural unhydrogenated coconut oil has become increasingly popular and is an interesting option in cooking and baking. We don’t call for it too much because it can get pretty pricy. Use only unhydrogenated coconut oil in these recipes, either refined (neutral-scented) or unrefined (richly coconut-scented). Coconut oil has the notable property of remaining semisolid at room temperature and becoming very firm if chilled. We like to use it semisolid (easy to scoop) or melted. There is some controversy about the healthfulness of this oil; some claim it cures whatever ails you, others claim it is the food of the devil. We will just step aside from all that and munch on our biscotti since the information will probably change by the time this book is in print.
NUT BUTTERS AND FRUIT PRESERVES
Nut butters turn ordinary cookie dough into delectable treats. Fruit preserves can be baked on top of cookies for a pretty gem-like effect or used to glue two unsuspecting cookies together for a tasty little sandwich. Have a good selection of both and you’ll never be at a loss for making everyday cookies something special.
We always use
NATURAL PEANUT BUTTER
in our recipes to avoid the nasty stuff full of hydrogenated oils. Be sure to stir any separated oil back into natural peanut butter before measuring for recipes. Since natural peanut butters can vary in moisture and oil content from brand to brand (and even batch to batch) you may have to make certain adjustments with the recipes. If your cookie dough seems too dry, add a tablespoon or two of nondairy milk. In the unlikely event the dough looks way too soupy, sprinkle in a tablespoon of flour.
PEANUT, ALMOND, AND HAZELNUT BUTTERS
prove that you can find most any kind of nut converted into a spreadable form these days. Peanut butter baked goods are always a crowd-pleaser, and we’re no exception to the masses; see PEANUT BUTTER BLONDIES (page 129) and PEANUT BUTTER CRISSCROSSES (page 81), just to name a few examples. If you can’t do peanuts, toasted soy nut butter is a great alternative. Almond and hazelnut butters are luxurious and nutritious other-butters; try some in HAZELNUT FUDGE DREAMIES (page 176).
WHAT IS PH BALANCE & WHAT THE PH DOES IT HAVE TO DO WITH COOKIES?
We bet that as you nodded out in chemistry class and drooled all over your textbook you never imagined your little nap would affect your cookie baking. Ph is simply how acidic (or not) a substance is. The less acidic a substance is, the more alkaline, or “basic,” it is.
FRUIT JAMS AND JELLIES:
It’s really up to you what to use on top of delicate thumbprint cookies or slathered between any drop or rolled cookie. For best results, we recommend using the thickest preserves you can get, such as a good chunky strawberry jam or a dense orange marmalade. Also great for cookies are raspberry (with or without seeds), blackberry, and blueberry preserves. For a different kind of preserve cookie, try CRANBERRY WALNUT THUMBPRINTS (page 153) if you’ve run out of things to do with post-Thanksgiving jellied cranberry sauce. Always be sure to give your jams a good stir before using to incorporate any water that might have pooled to the top and to achieve maximum spreadability.
STARCHES
Starches are that little something extra we like to include for texture. Sometimes starches step in for the special binding properties of eggs in vegan goodies or are added to create a special crisp lightness.
Cornstarch, a highly refined starch, can create cookies that are both delicate and slightly chewy. Arrowroot powder may be the most expensive of the three but blends seamlessly into cookie dough. This ground powder of a tropical root has properties similar to cornstarch, and we use them interchangeably. Tapioca flour, also sometimes packaged as tapioca starch, will give baked goods a chewier texture. We will let you know which of these starches works best in any given recipe.
COCOA POWDER AND SEMISWEET CHOCOLATE
Of course we have to talk about chocolate, because we’re certain you came here looking for chocolaty cookies. Cocoa powder is the easiest way to make satisfying chocolate baked treats. We only use unsweetened cocoa powder in these recipes, so save the sugar-added stuff for making hot chocolate.