Emily Post's Great Get-Togethers (16 page)

Plated.
The food is arranged on plates in the kitchen and then served to each guest. This works for a small number of guests and is the most attractive way to present your dinner. Think logistics, though. One person can’t handle more than three trips carrying two plates before the first plates start to cool off. Ask your partner or a guest to help bring the plates to the table. Women are usually served before men. Remember to serve on the left (LL—leave left).

Family style.
This is the least formal style. The hostess passes platters at the table and each guest serves herself, or the hostess prepares each plate from platters on the table and then the plates are passed around the table. You’ll then need to put the serving dishes on a warming tray on a sideboard or in the kitchen.

Serving Buffet Style

Semi buffet or seated dinner with buffet service.
Food and plates are set out on a buffet table. Guests serve themselves and then proceed to the table or groupings of smaller tables. Drinks, salad, and dessert courses are usually brought to guests at the table. This style adapts itself to large groups and outdoor parties nicely. We also love it because guests can choose their own portions and pass up foods they can’t eat or don’t care for without having to say, “No, thank you.”

Buffet with casual seating.
This is the classic buffet. Everything necessary for the meal—plates, napkins, silverware, food, condiments, and beverages—are all set out on a buffet table or tables. Guests help themselves and then sit where they please: living and dining rooms, family room, or patio. It’s perfect for a crowd—just be sure to have plenty of seating and tables where guests can place glasses or cups and saucers.
(See Chapter 6, Setting the Stage, page 59, for more on buffets.)

When to Start?

G
uests wait for the host or hostess to lift his or her fork and take the first bite (a holdover from the very old days when guests needed assurance that they weren’t going to be poisoned) or to say, “Please begin.” At a big party, the guest of honor’s soup might be stone-cold by the time everyone is served—so don’t keep your guests waiting! For any more than six guests, invite them to begin eating as soon as three or four have been served, especially if it’s a hot dish. Once everyone is served, you can interrupt for a moment to offer a toast or blessing or otherwise welcome guests to your table.

The Passing Lane

I
f you’re the one to start passing something, the convention is to offer once to the left and then pass to the right, serving yourself in between. It’s more convenient for right-handed people, but honestly, what’s more important is that dishes move in only one direction so they don’t cause a traffic jam. Here’s what’s passed at the table:

Salt and pepper,
usually together

Bread
, if not already on bread plates

Butter
, if not already on bread plates

Sauces and condiments
, each in a dish with a saucer and a serving utensil

Main-course dishes or salad are passed the same way, except that the person on the left holds the platter so the person on his right can serve herself.

Would Anyone Like a Little More?

I
t’s always a good idea to have enough food for second helpings. Seconds are usually offered for the main course, the salad (if it follows the main), and the dessert. (Offering seconds on a first course could throw a monkey wrench into the timing of your main course.) Keep an eye on your guests and begin offering seconds when about three-quarters of them have finished the first course. You can bring a platter or dish to the table and serve each guest individually, or pass the dish around the table and let each guest help himself. If it’s a buffet, invite guests to help themselves to more food.

Keep an eye on wine and water glasses, too. Replenish as needed, either by passing carafes, pitchers, and bottles or by pouring for your guests.

Clearing the Table

M
ake clearing between each course as efficient as possible, because after you clear, you also need to prep and serve the next course. Ahead of time, ask your partner or a close friend to assist if you haven’t hired servers (you don’t want all your guests jumping up to help). Take a tip from professional waitstaff: Never enter or leave the kitchen empty-handed. Here are some of the finer points of clearing the table:

• Wait until
  everyone
  has finished the course before clearing.
  
• Remove two plates at a time, but don’t stack them.
  
• Remove from the guest’s right side (remember RR—remove right.)
  
• Remove both the plate and the used and unused utensils for that course, as well as any condiments for the course.
  
• Clear the deck before dessert is served. Remove all salts, peppers, bread plates and knives, bread baskets, condiments, and predessert utensils that weren’t used.
  
• At the end of the meal, clear the dessert plates and blow out the candles. Finish the rest of the table-clearing duties after your guests leave.
  

In the kitchen, have a place to scrape and stack plates and a container of soapy water for utensils. Save the true washing up for after your guests leave.

When It’s Business

T
here’s a good chance that you (and your partner) may be invited to a purely social evening with a boss, colleague, or client. While most business entertaining takes place in restaurants, an at-home dinner party can be the perfect vehicle for doing a little social networking.

Since this is a social occasion, all the usual rituals of host and guest apply. There’s only one thing you should do differently: Limit yourself to one drink. You’re not being a party pooper; you’re being smart. Even though business may never be discussed—and at a purely social evening it shouldn’t be—you’ll want to present yourself at your best. After all, these are people you either do business with or
want
to do business with, and as such it’s still a professional occasion.

D
own in the sunny South, entertaining alfresco is a way of life. In the chilly North, it’s a short-lived but much-loved season between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Our summer schedule in Vermont is crammed with invitations to barbecues (Lizzie’s favorite), lawn parties, clambakes, and picnics. But that doesn’t mean we huddle indoors the other three seasons. Fall is great for tailgating parties and a game of touch football, and picnics during brisk leaf-peeping hikes. Winter skating parties, bonfires to celebrate the solstice, or an afternoon of snowshoeing followed by a hearty chili dinner keep spirits up on long, dark winter days. Spring in Vermont means maple “sugar on snow” parties (fresh hot syrup poured over snow with a side of pickle, definitely an acquired taste) and dinner parties featuring the first peas and asparagus from local gardens.

An outdoor party can take the brakes off your guest list, giving you room to invite more guests than your house or apartment alone can handle. With a few adjustments, any party can be held in the open air. About the only thing that might rain on your parade is...rain! Outdoor entertaining calls for a foolproof backup plan if Mother Nature chooses not to cooperate.

Most outdoor entertaining tends to be casual in nature, but that doesn’t mean you can’t plan an elegant midsummer’s night dinner party under an apple tree or a dressy cocktail party on the patio. Twinkling lights strung between trees and the starry sky above are all the decoration you need.

Sharing the Wealth

B
ackyard parties are great opportunities to gather a crowd, with everyone pitching in. Usually, the hosts provide the main event—the steak, burgers, ribs, and vegetables for grilling—and the beverages, while guests bring sides and desserts. It’s up to you to ensure that the menu is balanced. Before you start making phone calls or sending invites, determine which dishes you need to round out your meal. It’s okay to be specific: “Tanya, could you please bring a salad?” Or divide your list alphabetically: A–Ms bring a side and N–Zs bring dessert.

The Table

F
or a sit-down outdoor dinner party, linens, china, and glassware are great, but for a barbecue or large crowd, paper or reusable alternatives like bamboo, tin, or melamine plates, cups, and utensils is the practical way to go. (You don’t want the “good stuff” getting lost or broken.) Find vintage tablecloths at a thrift shop, or purchase sturdy, easy-to-clean oilcloth (available by the yard in colorful patterns) and pretty cotton or paper napkins—all suitable for outdoor dining. Just be sure that whatever you choose will stand up to what you’re serving. Anything that requires a knife and fork, such as steak or chicken, will need a sturdy plate and heavy-duty knives.

The Alfresco Menu

O
utdoor barbecues tend to feature hearty, soul-warming, nonfussy grilled foods such as ribs, chicken, steak, burgers, hot dogs, and fish, with sides like corn on the cob, salads (especially potato or pasta), coleslaw, and baked beans. Foods dressed with olive oil dressings like grilled vegetables and grainy salads like bulgur wheat, wild rice, and couscous all hold up extremely well and can be made in advance. Beer, cider, and wine all complement the informality of a barbecue, as do big pitchers of margaritas, sangria, lemonade, iced tea, and iced coffee. Hors d’oeuvres are of the simple and easy variety: chips and dips or salsas, deviled eggs, and vegetable crudité platters. Don’t forget the condiments—ketchup, mustard, hot sauce, BBQ sauces and mayo; relish and pickles; chutneys, Romesco, and tapenades—but serve each in a dish with a serving utensil, never directly from the jar. Cakes, cookies, cupcakes, brownies, pies, fruit salad, or sweet summer watermelon round out the menu.

Safety First

O
utdoor entertaining means that food will be served and sometimes even cooked outside. You’ll need to take extra precautions so that food doesn’t spoil in the heat and isn’t attacked by insects. Set up all food stations in the shade and provide mesh covers for dishes if insects are a problem.

Have lots of coolers on hand. To keep foods cool, especially those with a mayonnaise base, set bowls in larger bowls filled with ice or on wrapped cold packs. It’s better to use smaller platters that you refresh often than to leave a larger one wilting in the heat. If cold is a problem, use Crock-Pots, hot trays, or thermoses.

Cooking Outdoors: The Backyard Barbecue

E
asy and fun, the backyard barbecue is a quintessentially all-American way to entertain. (Don’t have a backyard? Check to see if a local beach or park can accommodate you.) You can host it yourself or, as is often the case, arrange a potluck or assign contributions. No matter what you cook—potatoes or a crock of beans baked in the coals, a pig roasted in a pit, s’mores toasted over a bonfire, or chicken sizzling on the grill—a barbecue takes any picnic to the next level.

The critical element to successful outdoor cooking is
timing
—not just the kind of timing that brings the whole meal together so it can be served, but the kind of timing that saves a beautiful steak from becoming a charcoal briquette. But since cuts of meat vary in thickness and some like it rare and some like it done, how do you know when to take it off the grill? Here are tried-and-true tips for successful grilling from our dad, Peter, and from Chef Peter (of the Jimtown Store in Healdsburg, California).

Grilling 101

• Purchase an instant-read thermometer. Test it for accuracy in a measuring cup filled with boiling water (it should read 212ºF). Use it to test meat for doneness (see the chart).
  
• Keep your grill clean. Let any residue burn off and use a steel brush to clean the racks. At the very least, brush the racks after you preheat the grill.
  
• Brush the grill with oil, or before lighting spray the racks with cooking spray like PAM or a spray made for grills.
  
• If you’re not using a barbecue sauce or marinade, season the meat or fish ahead of time with salt and let the salt soak in. Pat the meat or fish dry before putting on the grill, to prevent sticking. Or, try rubbing a little olive oil on the meat or fish.
  
• Start the meat on high heat to sear the outside and create a seal that locks in moisture.
  
• Once it’s been seared, turn the heat to medium or, if using charcoal, move to a cooler section of the grill.
  
• Use the instant-read thermometer, inserting it in the center of the thickest part of the meat. Pay attention to the temperature, and take the meat off the grill when the thermometer reads 5 degrees lower than your desired doneness. Let it “rest” on a platter, covered with foil, for 5 to 10 minutes. It will continue to cook for a bit.
  
• If you didn’t baste with barbecue sauce, sprinkle a little more olive oil on the meat along with freshly ground pepper. Add salt only after you’ve tasted a slice to see if it’s needed. Add a spritz of lemon juice on steak, lamb, pork, or veal as a finishing touch.
  

Beef and Lamb:
    rare: 125 °F    medium: 135–140 °F    well: 155 °F

Pork:
     medium: 150 °F    well: 160 °F

Chicken:
     breast: 165 °F    thigh: 175 °F

The Grill

A
grill is a wonderful thing—simple food cooked over an open fire in the great outdoors. Grilling is an art to master, whether it’s over a real or a gas fire. Here are several grill varieties and the pros and cons of each:

Charcoal grills.
The kettle grill and the hibachi use charcoal and are the most inexpensive. Lighting can be tricky. Get a canister fire starter or make your own out of open-ended, large no. 10 cans. Shred cardboard and paper on a little pile of coals, and light. It’s like starting a campfire, and healthier than using lighter fluid. These grills are the best for achieving a “charcoal flavor” or for adding mesquite or other hardwoods for a smoky flavor. They’re also portable—great for the beach or balcony (check your lease first!). Never use inside.

The Tuscan grill.
This is an insert for an indoor or outdoor fireplace. Basically, it’s a frame with a single rack that can be positioned at two to three levels above the coals. Outdoors you can use hardwood or charcoal; indoors you
must
burn hardwood, since burning charcoal indoors can cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Start cooking when you have glowing coals, not an active flame. This may take up to an hour. Cooking over hardwood gives food an incredible flavor; in fact, some claim it’s the only way to grill!

Gas grill.
A stand-alone gas grill is pricey— $200 to $500 depending on the model. Gas grills use propane canisters that are refilled or traded for filled ones—another ongoing expense. They’re extremely convenient to use and are the best for controlled cooking. If you have propane service at your house, a service professional can hook up a line to the grill, eliminating the canisters. (We recommend you also buy models with a shut-off timer, just in case you forget to turn it off.)

The outdoor cooking center.
This is the
sine plus ultra
of cooking alfresco. It’s basically an outdoor kitchen, a combination grill, rotisserie, stovetop, and oven, and often sink and storage. It’s a hefty investment, but if you live in a warm climate, it could pay off over the long haul.

Outwitting Mother Nature

N
ot every day is a clear, sunny 76 degrees. Rain is the obvious outdoor party spoiler. If you can’t accommodate your guests in your house or at another nearby location, a tent is the best way to provide weather insurance. Besides rain, you’ll want to factor in heat, cold, wind, and even insects. As the party day approaches, keep an eye on the weather forecast to be prepared if Mother Nature throws you a curveball. Here are some ways to bat a thousand, no matter the weather conditions:

HEAT:

• Entertain in afternoon or evening, when it’s cooler
  
• Umbrellas, fans, awnings, tents
  
• Paper fans
  
• Have extra ice, water, and nonalcoholic offerings
  
• Serve salads, cold foods
  
• Sunscreen
  

COLD:

• Space heaters
  
• Warm, spicy food
  
• Candles, warm colors
  
• Tea, hot chocolate, soup
  
• Hand warmers, blankets
  

WIND:

• Secure tablecloths, furniture, and flowers
  
• Replace stemware with tumblers
  
• Don’t use umbrellas, balloons
  
• Set up in the “lee” (nonwindy) side of a house, garage, or fence
  
• Nix any fires or candles
  

INSECTS:

• Citronella, repellent candles, or tiki torches with citronella oil
  
• Have insect repellent sprays or towelettes for guests
  
• Use pop-up mesh food covers
  

Lighting

E
vening parties call for extra outdoor lighting, and twinkle lights aren’t just for the holidays. Festooning trees and shrubs with little white lights gives instant sparkle to nighttime parties. Luminarias and candles in hurricane lamps or canning jars are great for lighting pathways and tabletops. Kerosene lamps provide extra drama when hung from porches or branches. Just be careful of open flames near buildings or on windy evenings. Designate someone to be in charge of lighting and extinguishing and to keep an eye on the flames.

Restroom

D
oes your location have restroom facilities? This isn’t always the case at public beaches and parks. Check it out ahead of time. At your house, make it clear where the guest bath is located, and leave the lights on to guide the way. Renting a portable toilet is another option, especially if you’re having a large party and your septic system may not be equipped to handle the extra activity.

Neighbors

I
t’s all a matter of perspective: Your fabulous party with the awesome sound track could be your neighbors’ nightmare. Think about whether parking or noise will be a problem for them. If you can, it’s a great idea to invite your neighbors to a big outdoor party—it does a lot to keep possible complaints to a minimum. However, be respectful of any noise ordinances in your town, and be prepared to tone it down if a neighbor complains. If parking is an issue, consider hiring a licensed high school or college student to valet park cars within a two-block radius. (Make sure he knows that you will pay him and tip him, and that your guests are not expected to do so: “Thanks, Mr. Hemley, I’m already taken care of.”)

Lizzie’s barbecue menu

An outdoor barbecue is Lizzie’s favorite way to entertain. She’s the queen of the grill, and her gatherings are famous not only for her spicy cuisine but also for the perfect playlist. Let the good times roll!

MIXED GRILL

Grilled Italian Sausage with Salsa Verde
(page 161)

Post Family Favorite Marinated and
Grilled Chicken or Shrimp
(page 160)

Bourbon-Marinated Flank Steak

SIDES

Buttermilk Coleslaw
(page 160)

Potatoes Tossed in Romesco Sauce
(page 162)

Fresh Corn, Cherry Tomatoes, Mozzarella,
and Basil with Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Cornbread with Ancho Chile Butter
(page 163)

DESSERT

Strawberry Shortcakes and Whipped Cream

Post Family Favorite Marinade

This works well with chicken, pork, shrimp, or lamb kebabs. Makes enough for 2 pounds of meat or shrimp

Juice of 2 lemons

1 garlic clove, mashed to a pulp

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons grated onion