Emily Post's Great Get-Togethers (20 page)

When the Party’s all About You

I
f you’re the lucky honoree at a shower, birthday, anniversary, farewell, or other party, you know you have some pretty good friends. Sometimes, though, it’s hard to be the center of all the attention. Just remember that people are making a fuss because they care about you and want to celebrate your milestones with you. So do your very best to jump into the spirit of the event with a smile, and go along graciously with everything your hosts have planned. Be respectful of your host’s budget if you’re asked for any special requests, and stay within your limit if you’re asked to provide a guest list.

Whenever you’re feted, it’s traditional to thank your hosts with flowers or some other gift either the day of or the day after the party. And of course, your hosts should get a handwritten note from you as well, as should anyone who gave you a gift.

S
tarting with Thanksgiving and lasting through New Year’s, the holiday season is a whirl of celebrations—Hanukkah, Christmas, Kwanzaa. This is the time of year when entertaining is at its most fabulous and frenetic. It’s a blizzard of celebratory elements: holiday traditions, glittering decor, traditional holiday foods, and the coming together of family and old friends. Communities celebrate with tree or menorah-lighting ceremonies, carol sings, and potluck dinners, and most businesses host an annual party. This is the time of year when we want to connect with everyone. We send cards, letters, and photos to those far away, and even greet strangers with “Happy holidays!” A holiday party is a special gift to friends—a chance for everyone to eat, drink, and be merry at this most joyous of seasons.

Start Early!

T
he spirit of the season is infectious, and calendars fill up fast during holiday time. For your party to make it on this year’s calendar, start planning early: Believe it or not, mid-October is not too early to book vendors or locations. You’ll want to be sure that any hired help—caterer, servers, a bartender—is lined up before you send invitations. Mail holiday invitations up to six weeks ahead of time, (that’s two weeks earlier than the norm) especially for a party on a Friday or Saturday evening in December. If you’re inviting relatives to stay during the holidays, extend your invitation as far in advance as possible so they can make travel arrangements.

We may laugh seeing commercial holiday decorations appear before Thanksgiving, but it’s a good reminder to have your house cleaned and decorated a good week before your party. Putting up seasonal decorations can be a big job, and you don’t want to leave it to the last minute. Besides, it’ll put
you
in the holiday spirit, which will make the rest of your party prep much more fun.

While Christmas is a focus for many, it’s only one aspect of the holidays. It’s just as easy to be festive without a Christmas tree, wreaths, and everything red and green. Capture the spirit of the season with lights, generosity, family, community, peace, and goodwill. Add touches of blue and silver for Hanukkah or feature red, green, and black for Kwanzaa. White, gold, and silver are great holiday colors in general. To celebrate winter, decorate your space with masses of candles and showcase white flowers, either in arrangements or pots of forced bulbs, like amaryllis and narcissus. (You can grow these yourself, but you’ll need to start the bulbs five to eight weeks ahead. Purchase bulb kits or ask a florist for directions.)

fa-la-la-la-la—la-la-la-la

T
here’s enough holiday music out there to suit everyone’s style: Traditional, chill, soul, hip-hop, jazz, Bing Crosby, Nat King Cole...what’s your style? What will your guests enjoy? Most likely it’s a mix of styles, so put your CD player on random or create your own mix. Label it “Holiday 20___” and start a tradition—a new mix each year.

The Scent of the Season

W
e don’t mean spraying your house with “Eau de Noel.” Your tree may do the trick, but adding fresh greens around the house—tucked behind pictures and mirrors or added to flower arrangements—lends another subtle layer to the holiday atmosphere. No access to holiday spruce? Find candles with a hint of northern forest or spiced berries. Simmer mulled cider or wine on the stove...you can even cheat and boil spices such as cinnamon sticks and cloves in water for a steam potpourri.

Holiday Open House

A
n open house is the perfect party for the holiday season. Open houses usually last from three to five hours, with guests coming and going at different times. Most guests stay for about an hour to an hour and a half. This means you can invite far more people than would normally fit into your space and have enough time for people to really visit.

Holiday Party Particulars

• Send personal invitations on informal cards or fill-ins. Shop early for the best selection. You can also find lots of fun downloadable invites on the Internet that you can personalize and print from your computer.
  
• Invitations follow the usual form but should include a specific start and end time.
  
• With a large guest list, you may be tempted to use “regrets only” and just tally the no’s. We say requesting RSVPs is the way to go: You’ll get a more accurate headcount, essential if you’re using a caterer or a bartender.
  
• Make sure you greet every one of your guests either at the door or by circulating at your party.
  

Holiday Party Menu Tips

• If food is being passed, keep it simple. Stick to finger foods or foods that just need a cocktail pick to eat.
  
• Pass hot hors d’oeuvres so you don’t have to worry about them staying warm.
  
• Have lots of four-inch plates when serving buffet style or using food stations.
  
• Put out bowls of candied or spiced nuts, such as pecans, a delicious and sophisticated touch.
  
• Toward the last third of the party, add in or switch to dessert-type bites: sugar-frosted grapes, strawberries dipped in chocolate, chocolate truffles, holiday cookies, or little cakes, such as cupcakes, sliced loaf or Bundt cakes, fruit and spice loaves, or petits fours.
  
• Use small platters and refill often to keep them looking fresh. Have a buffet table or distribute platters throughout your party space.
  
• Have extras of everything: small plates, glasses, napkins, cutlery.
  

Holiday Open House Buffet

A buffet works perfectly at a holiday open house, where people are coming and going at different times and it’s important to have plenty of food available throughout the party. Here is a delicious buffet menu created by food writer and caterer Carrie Brown for a holiday open house buffet:

ANTIPASTI BOARD

A selection of cheeses, cured meats, pâtés, olives, and nuts; special condiments such as membrillo (quince paste), fig cakes, chutney, preserves, and honey; a variety of toasts, crackers, crostini, and nut breads. (This may also be divided in two food stations: a cheese board and a charcuterie board, with cured meats and pâtés and pickled vegetables.)

“Stand-Up” Salad with Green Goddess Dip
(opposite)

Cannellini Bean Puree with Crostini

Whole or Sliced Ham with Grainy and Honey Mustards, Herb Butter, Cranberry Chutney, and Homemade Biscuits or Purchased Rolls

Smoked Salmon Platter with Crème Fraîche, Minced Shallots or Chives, Capers, and Dark Rye Bread

IF PASSED HORS D’OEUVRES ARE AN OPTION

Stuffed Roasted Mushrooms

Crab Cakes with Romesco Sauce
(page 162)

Horseradish-Crusted Hanger Steak with Roasted Garlic Aioli on Crostini
(page 198)

DESSERTS

Holiday Cookies and Biscotti

Little Chocolate Spice Cakes
(page 199)

DRINKS

Mexican Hot Chocolate

Mulled Cider or Wine

Eggnog

Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Other Sparkling Wine

“stand-up” Salad with Green Goddess Dip

Among California’s many contributions to the American salad lexicon, green goddess dressing must surely ra nk high. The potent and tangy concoction inspired this dip, which is featured in this unexpected but delightful stand-up hors d’oeuvre salad. Thinned with a little buttermilk, the dip becomes a very nice dressing for cold seafood, chicken, or vegetables. Serves 8

1 large egg

2 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons white tarragon vinegar

4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped

1 cup canola oil or other light oil

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

¼ cup snipped chives

2 scallions, white and tender green parts, trimmed and chopped

½ pound plain, mild goat cheese, softened, or
½ cup buttermilk (see Note)

Kosher salt

3 Belgian endives, cored and separated

Tender inner leaves of 3 heads of romaine lettuce

1.
In a food processor, combine the egg, yolks, vinegar, anchovies, lemon juice, mustard, and garlic and process until smooth. With the motor running, gradually add the oil through the feed tube; the mixture will thicken. Add the parsley, tarragon, chives, and scallions and pulse to blend into the sauce; do not overprocess—some flecks of green should remain. Add the cheese and pulse again until just blended. Adjust the seasoning, adding salt if necessary. Transfer the dip to a container, cover, and chill for several hours or overnight.

2.
Spoon the dip into a bowl and set the bowl on a platter. Surround the bowl with the endive and romaine and serve immediately.

This is also a pretty way to display other crudités: Nestle in small bunches of radishes, carrots, or stringed snap peas. In warm weather, select a large, round serving basket and place small ice packs in the bottom. Cover with linen napkins or a tea towel, hiding the ice packs, and place the bowl of green goddess dressing in the center. Stand the larger, darker green romaine leaves around the perimeter of the basket. Continue to place the lighter green leaves around the bowl, with the smallest ones nearest the center. You may serve this simply with hearts of romaine or add Belgian endive, tucking them into the lettuce leaves. Be sure to stand all the leaves upright, core ends down. The entire presentation looks like a big green daisy.

Note:
To use this as a salad dressing rather than a dip, omit the goat cheese and blend in ½ cup buttermilk instead.

Horseradish-Crusted Hanger Steak with Roasted Garlic Aioli

You may prepare all the components for this hors d’oeuvre in advance. But wait to assemble until you’re ready to serve—you don’t want the steak to turn brown or the crostini to get soggy!

Serves 6 people (around 2 pieces each)

3 large unpeeled garlic cloves

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 very fresh egg yolks

½ cup extra virgin olive oil, at room temperature

1 hanger steak (about 6 ounces)

1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish or well-drained prepared horseradish

2 tablespoons olive oil plus additional for drizzling on the crostini

1 small baguette

Kosher or sea salt

1 bunch of arugula or watercress

Finely chopped chives, for garnish

For the Aioli:

Roast the garlic in a 350°F oven until very soft, about 15 minutes. When cool, peel and mash in a small bowl. Whisk with the lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon of salt, a pinch of pepper, and the mustard. Then whisk in the egg yolks. While whisking, drizzle the extra virgin olive oil into the egg yolks in a very thin, steady stream. Chill, tightly covered, until ready to serve. Serve within 8 hours.

For the Hanger Steak:

Season the steak with salt and pepper. Rub in the horseradish. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over high heat until nearly smoking. Carefully place the steak in the pan and sear on all sides until well browned and medium-rare (125 to 130°F). Rest on a rack or plate for at least 5 minutes, until ready to serve. This may be done up to an hour in advance.

For the Crostini:

Slice the baguette into very thin (1/8-inch) slices. Place in a single layer on a cookie sheet and drizzle with olive oil, then season lightly with kosher or sea salt and pepper. Bake at 300°F until dry and very lightly browned.

To Assemble:

1.
Cutting across the grain, carve the hanger steak into thin slices. Cut the slices into pieces roughly the size of the crostini.

2.
Spread a little aioli (¼ teaspoon or so) on a crostini. Place a small piece of arugula or watercress on the aioli and place a small slice of steak on top of the arugula/watercress.