The Time Traveller's Guide to Elizabethan England (68 page)

70
. Anon. [Richard Gough], ‘An Historical Account of the Origin and Establishment of the Society of Antiquaries,
Archaeologia
, 1 (1770), i–xxxix; Linda van Norden, ‘Sir Henry Spellman on the Chronology of the Elizabethan College of
Antiquaries’,
Huntington Library Quarterly
, 13, 2 (1950), pp. 131–60; C. E. Wright, ‘The Elizabethan Society of Antiquaries and the Formation of the Cottonian Library’ in F. Wormald and C. E. Wright (eds),
The English Library before 1700
(1958), pp. 176–212.

71
. Michael Bennett, ‘Edward III’s Entail and the Succession to the Crown, 1376–1471’,
EHR
, 113 (1998), 580–609 at p. 606.

72
. In 1582 Norton received a commission from Francis Walsingham to examine what the nation’s history indicated for its future. He reported that the history of Britain undergoes a profound revolution approximately every five hundred years, the last of which took place in 1066. He predicted that England was due another revolution and, looking back at the recent Reformation, suggested a transformation provoked by religion – an accurate prediction, given the events of Charles I’s reign in the middle of the next century. See Barry Shaw, ‘Thomas Norton’s “Devices” for a Godly Realm: An Elizabethan Vision for the Future’,
The Sixteenth Century Journal
, 22, 3 (Autumn 1991), pp. 495–509.

5. Basic Essentials

1
. David Crystal, ‘To modernise or not to modernise: there is no question’,
Around the Globe
, 21 (2002), pp. 15–17.

2
. Black,
Reign
, pp. 5, 364–5.

3
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 60, 69.

4
. As in Harrison,
Description
, chapter four: ‘no occupier shall have occasion to travel far off with his commodities’.

5
. Mortimer, ‘Machyn’, pp. 981–98; Richard W. Bailey and Colette Moore, ‘Henry Machyn’s English’, in Christopher M. Cain and Geoffrey Russom (eds),
Studies in the English Language III
(2007), pp. 231–50; Derek Britton, ‘The Dialectal Origins of the Language of Henry Machyn’, in ibid., pp. 251–66.

6
. P. Beresford Ellis,
The Cornish Language and its Literature
(1974), p. 57, quoting Andrew Boorde,
Fyrst Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge
(1542).

7
. Stoyle,
West Britons
, plate 2.

8
. Stoyle,
West Britons
, pp. 35–9.

9
. Carew,
Survey
, f. 56r.

10
. Ibid.

11
. Hollyband,
Campo di Fior
.

12
. Frances A. Yeates, ‘Italian Teachers in Elizabethan England,’
Journal of the Warburg Institute
, vol. 1 (1937), pp. 103–16 at pp. 103–4, quoting Bruno,
La Cena et la Ceneri
(1584), dialogue III (G. Bruno,
Opere italiane
, ed. G. Gentile (1925), i, pp. 64–5).

13
. Lawrence Stone, ‘Elizabethan Overseas Trade’,
Economic History Review
, New Series, 2, 1 (1949), pp. 30–58 at p. 31.

14
. The types of paper and wood used are taken from Horman’s
Vulgaria
, ‘de scholasticis’.

15
. ‘Rules made by E. B. for children to write by’, quoted in Molly Harrison and O. M. Royston,
How they Lived, vol ii: an anthology of original accounts written between 1485 and 1700
(Oxford, 1963), p. 163.

16
. Duffy,
Morebath
, p. 14. Other examples are to be found in inventories, e.g. Havinden,
Inventories
,
p. 150, and Herridge,
Inventories
, pp. 5, 8, 25.

17
. The reference to chamber clocks is from Horman’s
Vulgaria
. The price is from Stevenson, ‘Extracts’, p. 301.

18
. Doran,
Exhibition
, pp. 145–7.

19
. Scott,
EOaW
, p. 50, quoting the letter of Robert Laneham.

20
. 6 Henry VIII, cap. 4 (1515). These hours are stated in the Statute of Artificers in 1563 (5 Elizabeth, cap. 4).

21
. Mortimer, ‘Machyn’, p. 988.

22
. Carew,
Survey
, f. 54r.

23
. Robert S. Dilley, ‘The Customary Acre: an Indeterminate Measure’,
Agricultural History Review
23 (1975), pp. 173–6 at p. 174.

24
. Carew,
Survey
, f. 36r.

25
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 87, 93.

26
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 175.

27
. Hodgen, ‘Fairs’, p. 391.

28
. Hodgen, ‘Fairs’, pp. 393, 395; Emmison,
HWL
, p. 193.

29
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 191.

30
. Hoskins,
Exeter
, p. 59.

31
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 87–9.

32
. Wrightson,
Earthly Necessities
, p. 118. In London in 1560, basic foodstuffs, drink and fuel are 75 per cent more than they were twenty years earlier. See Dawson,
Plenti & Grase
, p. 34.

33
. Wrightson,
Earthly Necessities
, p. 118;
CAHEW
, i, pp. 150–1; Overton, ‘Prices’, p. 140.

34
. Thirsk,
Documents
, pp. 599–601.

35
. 5 Elizabeth, cap. 11.

36
. For the horse-powered aspect of Mestrelle’s press, see Magno, p. 142.

37
. In stating this, it is acknowledged that a modern pair of sheets is a different commodity from the Elizabethan ones. The modern pair is manufactured by machine, it is a luxury item, and there are many cheaper artificial alternatives. In the 1590s the sheets represent many hours of labour, and cheap artificial alternatives do not exist. Nevertheless, it is assumed here that they are comparable, for the sake of argument.

38
. 13 Elizabeth, cap. 8. See also Peter Spufford, ‘Long-Term Rural Credit in Sixteenth and Seventeenth-Century England: the Evidence of Probate Accounts’, in Arkell,
Death
, pp. 213–28; Emmison,
HWL
, p. 91; Mortimer, ‘Accounts’.

39
. Emmison,
HWL
, pp. 146, 165.

40
. Hoskins,
Exeter
, p. 52.

41
. Lawrence Stone, ‘An Elizabethan Coalmine’,
Economic History Review
, New Series, 3, 1 (1950), pp. 97–106.

42
. Mortimer,
Probate
, p. 25.

43
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 167.

44
. Mortimer,
Probate
, p. 3.

45
. Pelling,
CL
, p. 126. The causes of syphilis were well known at the time, so this reflects an expectation that the master would sleep with the servant.

46
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 4, 12, 20, 66, 72, 73, 80.

47
. Magno, p. 146.

48
. Platter,
Travels
, pp. 163, 183; Rye,
England
; Magno, p. 144.

6. What to Wear

1
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 159, quoting Moryson’s
Itinerary
, part one, p. 199. Most of the references to the queen’s clothes in this chapter are from Arnold.

2
. Scott,
EOaW
, p. 12.

3
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 7–10. The question of whether women can show their nipples is a matter of doubt – and of context. No
Puritan would have thought it seemly. But in some artwork and in sculptures of women from the New World, the full breast is often depicted; and the French ambassador describes seeing ‘the whole breast’.

4
.
Eliz. People
, pp. 31–2.

5
. For a 1568 case, see Emmison,
HWL
, p. 274.

6
.
Tudor Tailor
, pp. 36–7.

7
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 38.

8
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 90.

9
. Schneider, ‘Colors’, esp. pp. 111–14. Her analysis of colour having nationalistic overtones seems plausible, and I have followed it here; but she does not pay enough attention to the number of common women’s petticoats and kirtles that are dyed with madder.

10
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 157–8. The practice of sending fashion dolls is mentioned in the correspondence between Marie de Medici and Henri II of France: ‘Fontenac tells me that you desired to have some models of the fashion of dress in France. I am sending you some dressed dolls and will send you with the Duc de Bellegarde a good tailor.’ Quoted in Norris,
Costume
, ii, p. 667. For the value of imports, see under ‘babies’ in
Port & Trade
.

11
. Thomas Dekker,
Seven Deadly Sins of London
(1606), quoted in Black,
Reign
, p. 268.

12
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 115, 125, 128, 135–6.

13
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 4.

14
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, pp. 8, 33, 36.

15
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 42.

16
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 4–5.

17
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 61–2.

18
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 36.

19
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 47. The example cited there is recorded in the Much Wenlock parish register for 1547.

20
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 208; Norris,
Costume
, ii, p. 545.

21
. Holmes,
London
, p. 24; Schneider, ‘Colors’, p. 119; Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 206–10.

22
. ‘Menstrual clouts’ [cloths] are mentioned in the early English translations of the Bible. See
Tudor Tailor
, p. 24. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 52, states that women do not wear drawers until the nineteenth century; but Pepys’s wife does. See entries for 15 May 1663 and 4 June 1663.

23
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 20; Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 209.

24
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 48.

25
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 144–7.

26
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 154.

27
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 49 (Kempe);
Tudor Tailor
, pp. 22, 40, 46.

28
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 143.

29
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, pp. 44–5.

30
. Holmes,
London
, p. 25.

31
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 182.

32
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 42.

33
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 122–3, 156–7.

34
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 213–14.

35
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 33.

36
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 214.

37
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 311, quote BL Stowe 557, fol. 72.

38
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 313, quote BL Stowe 557, fol. 76.

39
. Quoted in
Sh. Eng
., ii, p. 97.

40
. Quoted in Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 203.

41
. Quoted in
Sh. Eng
., ii, p. 110. No date or place is given.

42
. Havinden,
Inventories
, p. 220.

43
. Probate inventory of Alice Bates,
http://www.the-orb.net/ather-stone/inventory.html
, downloaded 10 June 2011.

44
. Havinden,
Inventories
, p. 120. Avis Gardner’s clothes are a red petticoat (3s 4d), an old frieze cassock (2s), a waistcoat (8d), a flannel apron (6d), an old worsted apron (3d), two old linen aprons (4d), three smocks (1s 8d), seven kerchiefs (2s), old rail
[nightshift] (2d), seven partlets (1s 8d), an old pair of shoes (2d) and a hat (4d). The chest was worth 1s 8d.

45
. Mortimer,
Probate
, pp. 15, 23, 25.

46
. For the definition of ‘rubbers’, see
OED
. The same source quotes as its earliest reference to hairbrushes Oswald Gaebelkhover,
The book of physicke
, translated by A. M. (1st edn, 1599). For a German illustration of a sixteenth-century maker of hairbrushes, see Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 233. Most gentlewomen used combs through the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. William Kent started manufacturing modern hairbrushes in 1777. Note that a high-quality hairbrush probably used for grooming was found on the
Mary Rose
. See
Before the Mast
, p. 354.