Diary of an Expat in Singapore (39 page)

It is absolutely true that the best thing about being an expat are the other expats you meet. And that the experience you have is only as good as the expats you know. Sure, there is the new culture to discover, the traditions to learn, and the foods to sample, but ultimately it’s all about the people. And because many expats view their time here as temporary, they know this is the best time to try something new. A new business, an extravagant hair colour; you can re-invent yourself and go by your middle name, wear only black, or become a vegan. It’s up to you. If you always wanted to try catering or be a yoga instructor, now is the time. And if it fails, nobody needs to know. Or at least, nobody from your hometown.

One mother complains her dog was bitten by a cobra.

The question was meant to be an ice-breaker: “Do you enjoy having a garden?” In other countries, a simple question. In Singapore, not so much. The answer might surprise you (I’m guessing almost as much as it surprised her dog). And for the record, this is exactly why I don’t have a garden. Do we live in the English Cotswolds? I don’t think so. Theoretically, we would all like a garden… just not one
that will kill us
. One of my expat friends kindly keeps us updated via photos posted on her social network of the reptiles she finds slithering around her black-and-white house. I usually get to see them right before bedtime. Thank you for that.

The main topic is the Mandarin programme at school.

International teachers, professional swim coaches, and enviable theatre. Not too much to complain about at international schools (except for the fees, of course). Oh wait, there’s the Chinese. Expat parents can always find something to complain about the Mandarin program. And usually that there’s not enough of it. Expat parents expect one thing when it comes to Chinese: fluency.

8:30 a.m. Coffee at the Polo Club

This list is dedicated to those travellers who may be just on a layover and can only spend one day in Singapore. Here is a small sample of the many special things to do. Any of these will leave an indelible memory of Singapore; however, with comfortable shoes and a little energy, it is also possible to do them all.

First off, coffee at the Polo Club. Unlike other clubs in Singapore, membership is not required at this discreet club full of colonial charm. This is not a publicized bit of information, which is just as well. If you’re lucky, you can enjoy a glass of wine on the verandah overlooking the polo field while a match is going on. If not, you can let your kids walk over to the stables and give carrots to the horses. If you’re not a cat-lover, beware of those pesky cats following you.

10:00 a.m. Shopping on Orchard Road

Singapore is viewed by many as the shopping capital of the world, and if you go to Takashimaya at exactly 10 am when the store opens, each member of staff will bow as you enter through the doors. Prices are still high but the fact that you are briefly treated like royalty definitely improves your disposition.

12:30 p.m. Prawn noodles at Food Republic

There is a dazzling array of food at the aptly named Food Republic (located at Wisma Atria, on Orchard Road) but one vendor is clearly superior: the stall serving a delicious, piping-hot plate of prawn noodles on an
opeh
leaf (a brown, dried palm leaf). You’ll recognize it from the long line of customers patiently waiting for their fresh noodles cooked on the spot.

2:00 p.m. Luge at Sentosa

Fun for adults and kids alike. You can enjoy the gorgeous views of Sentosa (a popular island resort in Singapore) as you speed downhill. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can jump into the water at Palawan Beach. As long as you ignore the many oil tankers, you’ll feel like you’re on an exotic beach under swaying palm trees.

4:00 p.m. High tea at the Fullerton Hotel

Housed in the old General Post Office building, the Fullerton Hotel is one of the most impressive colonial buildings in Singapore. The facade and luxurious interior will transport you to another age. And the multi-tiered stand of dainty cakes and exquisite sandwiches is not too shabby either.

6:30 p.m. Dinner at a Peranakan restaurant

Peranakans are descendants of early Chinese migrants who settled in Singapore and married local Malays. One of their most significant contributions is culinary. A classic example of their delicious fusion cuisine is laksa (a spicy noodle soup). If you have an addictive personality, avoid it.

8:00 p.m. Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel

Raffles Hotel, established in 1887 by two Armenian brothers, is Singapore’s most venerable institution. It’s a tradition to have a Singapore Sling (the cocktail invented here) at the Long Bar at Raffles. According to a local legend, this is where the last tiger in Singapore was shot. Expect to walk on peanut shells on the way out as patrons are encouraged to throw the shells on the ground (voted Least Popular Joint by cleaners).

9:30 p.m. Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo