The Little Paris Kitchen (32 page)

I think a much better way of handling hot flushes is to eat a perfectly dressed fresh green salad. The French know how to dress, both in fashion and salad terms. They keep it simple and classic.

A ratio of 3 parts oil to 1 part acid is a general rule of thumb when making vinaigrette, but at the end of the day your personal taste can always make it a little more or less acidic.

Once you know the basics, feel free to add different types of mustard to your vinaigrette, or chopped herbs, shallots, or chile. For other ideas, see the recipe for
Salade de carottes râpées et rémoulade de céleri-rave et pommes
(
page 110
).

• 6 tbsp oil
*
• 2 tbsp vinegar or lemon juice • 1 tsp salt • a generous pinch of sugar

Use an empty clean jar to shake the oil and vinegar, or whisk them together in a bowl, making sure they blend together well. Season with the salt and sugar. Try the dressing by dipping in a salad leaf and tasting, then adjust the seasoning to your liking if necessary. As long as it doesn't contain herbs, vinaigrette will keep in an airtight container in a cool cupboard for months, although it will need to be stirred or shaken (if kept in a jar) before using.

*
Vegetable or sunflower oil will give the dressing a delicate taste, whereas extra virgin olive oil is more robust in flavor. I find a combination of both works well. You can also experiment with other oils that have a distinctive taste, such as hazelnut, pistachio, and pumpkin
.

If you're like me and sometimes end up with leftover wine and don't know what to do with it, you could have a go at making your own vinegar (although you can freeze wine in an ice-cube tray and use it for cooking later). Homemade vinegar is easy and tends to have a more complex flavor than store-bought varieties.

You will need equal amounts of red wine
*
and organic cider vinegar (or live vinegar).
**
Stir them together and pour into a clean large container with a loose-fitting lid, making sure there's enough room for air to circulate. Cover with a piece of cheesecloth and then the lid and store in a cool, dark place for 1 week.

Remove the lid and cheesecloth and take a sniff—it should have a dominate smell and taste of vinegar with a light aroma of wine. It can be used at this stage, but it will develop more flavor if left for another week. When you need vinegar for kitchen use, pour some off and then top up the base with new wine. The vinegar will continue to develop more flavor the longer you leave it and can be kept in a dark cupboard for six months.

PASTRY CREAM

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

Crème pâtissière
(pastry cream) might not sound like the most exciting French dessert recipe but it is a great one to know.

Once you have the hang of making it, there'll be no stopping you. Fill
éclairs, millefeuilles
, tarts, cakes, doughnuts, or trifles, or fold in some whipped cream to make a simple mousse or, as the French call it, a
crème Madame
. The possibilities are endless. And then there are also countless flavors: vanilla, chocolate, coffee, orange, cinnamon. You could probably incorporate pastry cream into any dessert, it's that versatile. It can also be made in advance and kept in the fridge for 2–3 days.
Café Gourmande
(
page 212
) is a great example of the versatility of
crème pâtissière
. All you have to do is make one quantity of the basic recipe and with a couple of extra ingredients you can then create three mini desserts: strawberry and vanilla tartlets, orange mousse, and crème de cassis trifle. Sssssshhhhh, don't tell anyone how simple it is, though—your friends will be less impressed.

• 6 egg yolks • ½ cup superfine sugar •
⅓
cup cornstarch • 1 vanilla pod
*
• 2 cups milk

Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until light and thick, then whisk in the cornstarch.

Split the vanilla pod in half and scrape out the grains, using the back of a knife. Add the vanilla pod and grains (or your choice of flavoring) to the milk. Bring the milk to a boil and switch off the heat. Remove the vanilla pod and pour the milk in a slow stream onto the egg mixture, whisking vigorously all the time.

Return the mixture to a clean pot and continuously whisk over a medium heat. Make sure to scrape the sides and the bottom, otherwise it will burn. The cream will start to thicken. Once it releases a bubble or two, take it off the heat.

Pour onto a tray lined with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic wrap (pat the plastic wrap so it sticks directly onto the cream) and refrigerate for at least an hour before using.

*
Instead of a vanilla pod, try these other flavors:

Chocolate:
2 heaped tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

Coffee:
2 teaspoons instant coffee powder

Mocha:
2 teaspoons instant coffee powder, 1 heaped tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

Citrus:
zest of 1 orange, lemon, or lime or a combination of all three

Lavender:
1 teaspoon dried lavender (remove from the infused milk before incorporating with the eggs)

Tea: 2
heaped tablespoons Earl Grey, green, or matcha tea (remove tea leaves from the infused milk before incorporating with the eggs)

Spices:
try cinnamon, ginger, tonka bean, nutmeg, chile (works particularly well with chocolate)

PREPARATION TIME: 20 MINUTES RESTING TIME: 1 HOUR COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

Unless otherwise stated, I've used the following ingredients in the recipes:

•
coarse sea salt

•
freshly ground black pepper

•
freshly grated nutmeg

•
whole milk

•
unsalted butter

•
superfine sugar

•
medium-sized fruits and vegetables

•
large eggs

•
bouquet garni: 1 bay leaf, 10 peppercorns, 5 parsley stalks, 2 sprigs of thyme

Spoon measures are level unless otherwise stated

Fahrenheit temperatures are given for conventional ovens. For convection ovens reduce the temperature by 25–50°F, or according to manufacturer's instructions. For other ovens, see the conversion chart on the opposite page.

It's impossible to list all the amazing foodie places in Paris, so I've just popped my regulars down.

It's not often you find two women running a restaurant in Paris and even more unusual to find two Englishwomen. They cook up a storm with their English dishes with a French twist. It's not just the Brit expats like me who are loving their cooking; the French are too.

6 impasse de la Défense

75018 Paris

Off a little side street in Paris's second Chinatown, Belleville, you'll find this restaurant serving simple, tasty French food and a great selection of wines.

3 rue Jouye Rouve

75020 Paris

After all that hard work doing the food shopping, I like to pop into this charming wine bar which is just off marché d'Aligre. At the weekend they serve oysters in addition to a great plate of charcuterie or cheese.

1 rue Théophile Roussel

75012 Paris

When I need a break from French food, I like to pop by Bob's for a juice and a healthful salad.

15 rue Lucien Sampaix

75010 Paris

www.bobsjuicebar.com

My local butchers, who are always serving with a smile and happy to give me some advice on how to cook the meat perfectly.

53 rue Meaux

75019 Paris

My local. Not typically Parisian, being right in the heart of the second Chinatown in Paris, but it makes for interesting people-watching.