Tasty (30 page)

 
176
 
“(available at a low price)”
: Sigmund Freud,
Cocaine Papers
, ed. Robert Byck (New York: Plume, 1975), 123.

 
177
 
bodies literally overheated
: Narender R. Gavvaa, James J. S. Treanor, Andras Garami, Liang Fang, Sekhar Surapaneni, Anna Akrami, Francisco Alvarez, Annette Bake, Mary Darling, Anu Gore, Graham R. Jang, James P. Kesslak, Liyun Ni, Mark H. Norman, Gabrielle ­Palluconi, Mark J. Rose, Margaret Salfi, Edward Tan, Andrej A. Romanovsky, Christopher Banfield, and Gudarz Davar, “Pharmacological blockade of the vanilloid receptor TRPV1 elicits marked hyperthermia in humans,”
Pain
136, nos. 1–2 (2008): 202–10, doi:10.1016/j.pain.2008.01.024.

 
179
 
a heat receptor
: Arpad Szallasi, “The vanilloid (capsaicin) receptor:
Receptor types and species specificity,”
General Pharmacology
25 (1994): 223–43.

 
181
 
soldiers in the Himalayas
: Sudha Ramachandran, “Indian Defense Spices Things Up,”
Asia Times Online
, July 8, 2009,
http://www.atimes.com/atimes/South_Asia/KG08Df01.html
.

 
181
 
precursor to diabete
s: Celine E. Riera, Mark O. Huising, Patricia Follett, Mathias Leblanc, Jonathan Halloran, Roger Van Andel, Carlos Daniel de Magalhaes Filho, Carsten Merkwirth, and Andrew Dillin, “TRPV1 pain receptors regulate longevity and metabolism by neuropeptide signaling,”
Cell
157, no. 5 (2014): 1023–36, doi:10.1016/j.cell.2014.03.051.

 
181
 
but sometimes they die
: Peter Holzer, “The pharmacological challenge to tame the transient receptor potential vanilloid-1 (TRPV1) nocisensor,”
British Journal of Pharmacology
155, no. 8 (2008): 1145–62, doi:10.1038/bjp.2008.351; Peter Holzer interview, March 2012.

 
182
 
raises metabolic rates
: Keith Singletary, “Red Pepper: Overview of potential health benefits,”
Nutrition Today
46, no. 1 (2011): 33–47.

 
182
 
the slaking of thirst
: R. Eccles, L. Du-Plessis, Y. Dommels, and J. E. Wilkinson, “Cold pleasure: Why we like ice drinks, ice-lollies and ice cream,”
Appetite
71 (2013): 357–60, doi:10.1016/j.appet.2013.09.011.

 
183
 
always chose the mild cracker first
: Paul Rozin and Deborah Schiller, “The nature and acquisition of a preference for chili pepper by humans,”
Motivation and Emotion
4, no. 1 (1980): 77–101.

 
184
 
was razor-thin
: Ibid., 97.

 
185
 
the two closely overlap
: Siri Leknes and Irene Tracey, “A common neurobiology for pain and pleasure,”
Nature Reviews: Neuroscience
9, no. 4 (2008): 314–20, doi:10.1038/nrn2333.

 
186
 
weren't expecting the pain to end
: Siri Leknes, Michael Lee, Chantal Berna, Jesper Andersson, and Irene Tracey, “Relief as a reward: Hedonic and neural responses to safety from pain,”
PloS One
6, no. 4 (2011): e17870, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0017870.

Chapter 8: The Great Bombardment

 
190
 
mispronunciation of the word
: “Tayto's Place in World History,”
The Independent
, May 6, 2006,
http://www.independent.ie/unsorted/features/taytos-place-in-world-history-26383239.html
.

 
190
 
around the same time
: Herr's company website,
http://www.herrs.com
; Frito-Lay history on Funding Universe website,
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/frito-lay-company-history/
.

 
191
 
a sense of tradition and ritual
: Laudan,
Cuisine and Empire
, location 958.

 
192
 
potatoes, sugary beverages, and red meat
: Dariush Mozaffarian, Tao Hao, Eric B. Rimm, Walter C. Willett, and Frank B. Hu, “Changes in diet and lifestyle and long-term weight gain in women and men,”
The New England Journal of Medicine
364, no. 25 (2011): 2392–404, doi:10.1056/NEJMoa1014296.

 
193
 
Chilies were often used to flavor it
: Ellen Messer, “Potatoes (White),” chapter II. B.3 in
Cambridge World History of Food
, eds. Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas,
http://www.cambridge.org/us/books/kiple/potatoes.htm
.

 
194
 
somebody's back room, garage, or barn
: Dirk Burhans,
Crunch!: A History of the Great American Potato Chip
(Madison, WI: Terrace Books, 2008), Kindle location 322.

 
194
 
powerful rush to the brain's pleasure centers
: Kent C. Berridge, “The debate over dopamine's role in reward: The case for incentive salience,”
Psychopharmacology
191, no. 3 (2007): 391–431, doi:10.1007/s00213-006-0578-x.

 
195
 
attention became more focused and acute
: Clare E. Turner, Winston D. Byblow, Cathy M. Stinear, and Nicholas R. Gant, “Carbohydrate in the mouth enhances activation of brain circuitry involved in motor performance and sensory perception,”
Appetite
80 (2014): 212–19, doi:10.1016/j.appet.2014.05.020.

 
195
 
the richer it tastes
: Marta Yanina Pepino, Latisha Love-Gregory, Samuel Klein, and Nada A. Abumrad, “The fatty acid translocase gene, CD36, and lingual lipase influence oral sensitivity to fat in obese subjects,”
Journal of Lipid Research
53, no. 3 (2012): 561–66,
doi:10.1194/jlr.M021873.

 
196
 
they loved it
: Amy J. Tindell, Kyle S. Smith, Susana Peciña, Kent C. Berridge, and J. Wayne Aldridge, “Ventral pallidum firing codes hedonic reward: When a bad taste turns good,”
Journal of Neurophysiology
96, no. 5 (2006): 2399–409, doi:10.1152/jn.00576.2006.

 
196
 
fusion of these two bad tastes
: Yuki Oka, Matthew Butnaru, Lars von Buchholtz, Nicholas J. P. Ryba, and Charles S. Zuker, “High salt recruits aversive taste pathways,”
Nature
494 (2013): 472–75, doi:10.1038/nature11905.

 
197
 
literally addicted to salt
: Michael J. Morris, Elisa S. Na, and Alan Kim Johnson, “Salt craving: The psychobiology of pathogenic sodium intake,”
Physiology & Behavior
94, no. 5 (2008): 709–21, doi:10.1016/j.physbeh.2008.04.008.

 
198
 
over time, they gained weight
: Jacques Le Magnen,
Hunger
(Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1985), 42.

 
198
 
fights, assaults, and disorderly conduct
: Eliza Barclay, “Food As Punishment: Giving US Inmates ‘The Loaf' Persists,”
Morning Edition
, NPR, January 2, 2014,
http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/01/02/256605441/punishing-inmates-with-the-loaf-persists-in-the-u-s
.

 
199
 
keeping it alive for others
: Barbara J. Rolls, Edmund T. Rolls, Edward A. Rowe, and Kevin Sweeney, “Sensory specific satiety in man,”
Physiology & Behavior
27 (1980): 137–42.

 
200
 
“ham and motherfuckers”
: Robert E. Peavey,
Praying for Slack: A Marine Corps Tank Commander in Vietnam
(Minneapolis: Zenith Imprint Press, 2004), 189.

 
203
 
vision, memory, and knowledge
: Kathrin Ohla, Ulrike Toepel, Johannes le Coutre, and Julie Hudry, “Visual-gustatory interaction: Orbitofrontal and insular cortices mediate the effect of high-calorie visual food cues on taste pleasantness,”
PloS One
7, no. 3 (2012): e32434, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0032434.

 
203
 
makes pink yogurt taste worse
: Vanessa Harrar and Charles Spence, “The taste of cutlery: How the taste of food is affected by the weight, size, shape, and colour of the cutlery used to eat it,”
Flavour
2, no. 21 (2013), doi:10.1186/2044-7248-2-21.

 
204
 
saltier from a blue bowl
: Charles Spence, Vanessa Harrar, and Betina Piqueras-Fiszman, “Assessing the impact of the tableware and other contextual variables on multisensory flavour perception,”
Flavour
1, no. 7 (2012), doi:10.1186/2044-7248-1-7.

 
204
 
wine is more expensive, it tastes better
: Hilke Plassmann, John Doherty, Baba Shiv, and Antonio Rangel, “Marketing actions can modulate neural representations of experienced pleasantness,”
Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences
105, no. 3 (2008): 1050–54.

 
204
 
“chicory,” “coal,” and “musk”
: Gil Morrot, Frederic Brochet, and Denis Dubourdieu, “The color of odors,”
Brain and Language
79, no. 2 (2001): 309–20, doi:10.1006/brln.2001.2493.

 
205
 
bringing experience to bear on flavor
: Samuel M. McClure, Jian Li, Damon Tomlin, Kim S. Cypert, Latane M. Montague, and P.
Read Montague, “Neural correlates of behavioral preference for culturally familiar drinks,”
Neuron
44, no. 2 (2004): 379–87, doi:10.1016/j.neuron.2004.09.019.

 
206
 
The volume of choices was a deterrent
: Sheena S. Iyengar and Mark R. Lepper, “When choice is demotivating: Can one desire too much of a good thing?”
Journal of Personality and Social Psychology
79, no. 6 (2000): 995–1006.

 
206
 
during the moment of decision
: Hilke Plassmann, John O. Doherty, and Antonio Rangel, “Orbitofrontal cortex encodes willingness to pay in everyday economic transactions,”
The Journal of Neuroscience
27, no. 37 (2007): 9984–88, doi:10.1523/JNEUROSCI.2131-07.2007.

 
209
 
on the website
Gawker: Hamilton Nolan, “Americans Will Be Drugged to Believe Their Soda Is Sweeter,”
Gawker
, December 3, 2013,
http://gawker.com/americans-will-be-drugged-to-believe-their-soda-is-swee-1475526047
.

 
210
 
into the right kind of muscle tissue
: Nicola Jones, “A taste of things to come? Researchers are sure that they can put lab-grown meat on the menu—if they can just get cultured muscle cells to bulk up,”
Nature
468 (2010): 752–53.

 
210
 
“a bit like cake”
: Davide Castelvecchi, “Researchers Put Synthetic Meat to the Palate Test,”
Nature News Blog
, August 15, 2013,
http://blogs.nature.com/news/2013/08/researchers-put-synthetic-meat-to-the-palate-test.html
.

 
211
 
“meal in a glass”
: Rob Rhinehart, “How I Stopped Eating Food,”
Mostly Harmless
(blog), February, 13 2013,
http://robrhinehart.com/?p=298
.

 
213
 
share it with the world
: Nimesha Ranasinghe website,
http://nimesha.info/projects.html
; Nimesha Ranasinghe, Ryohei Nakatsu, Nii Hideaki, and Ponnampalam Gopalakrishnakone, “Tongue-mounted interface for digitally actuating the sense of taste,”
Proceedings of the 16th IEEE International Symposium on Wearable Computers
(June 2012): 80–87, doi:10.1109/ISWC.2012.16, ISSN: 1550-4816; Nimesha Ranasinghe, Kasun Karunanayaka, Adrian David Cheok, O. N. N. Fernando, Hideaki Nii, Ponnampalam Gopalakrishnakone, “Digital Taste and Smell Communication,”
Proceedings of International Conference on Body Area Networks, BodyNets 2011
(November 2011): 78–84; Nimesha Rana-singhe, A. D. Cheok, O. N. N. Fernando, H. Nii, and G. Ponnampalam, “Electronic taste stimulation,”
Proceedings of the 13th
International Conference on Ubiquitous Computing
(2011): 561–62, doi:10.1145/2030112.2030213.

Chapter 9: The DNA of Deliciousness

 
215
 
a strong umami signature
: McGee,
On Food and Cooking
, 237.

 
218
 
had both been wrong
: René Dubos,
Louis Pasteur: Free Lance of Science
(Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1950), 41, 116–34.

 
220
 
the skin remained crisp
y: Hervé This, “Modelling dishes and exploring culinary ‘precisions': The two issues of molecular gastronomy,” supplement,
British Journal of Nutrition
93, no. 1 (2007): S139–S146, doi:10.1079/BJN20041352.

 
221
 
“new techniques and dishes”
: “Cooking Statement,” The Fat Duck website,
http://www.thefatduck.co.uk/Heston-Blumenthal/Cooking-Statement/
.

 
224
 
“traditional fermentative processes”
: Daniel Felder, Daniel Burns, and David Chang, “Defining microbial terroir: The use of native fungi for the study of traditional fermentative processes,”
International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science
1, no. 1 (2011): 64–69, doi:10.1016/j.ijgfs.2011.11.003.

 
230
 
“what goes on inside our soufflés”
: Leo Hickman, “Doctor Food,”
The Guardian
, April 19, 2005,
http://www.theguardian.com/news/2005/apr/20/food.science
.

 
232
 
Western Europe and North America
: Yong-Yeol Ahn, Sebastian E. Ahnert, James P. Bagrow, and Albert-Laszlo Barabasi, “Flavor network and the principles of food pairing,”
Scientific Reports
196, no. 1 (2011): 1–7, doi:10.1038/srep00196.